Whether you’re an all out foodie, or just love discovering different dishes and wines when you travel, it’s always great to visit a city known for its food. It’s even better when that foodie city offers beaches, mountains, and a blend of art, culture, and recreation opportunities. If this is up your alley, consider a trip to San Sebastián, Spain. My husband and I discovered this cultural mecca this past June as we set out to explore northern Spain. 

 

Part 2 of a travel series to Spain

When I first thought about San Sebastián, fishing boats and Hemingway came to mind. That’s probably because the city started as a fishing village and Hemingway had a thing for San Sebastián and northern Spain in general. San Sebastián is actually the centerpiece of his novel, “The Sun Also Rises”. (Read about Hemingway’s love for San Sebastián and the area around it- the Basque Country – here.)  

In addition, I knew San Sebastián was famous for its beaches and unbeatable ocean views, charming streets, Michelin Star restaurants and pintxos, and let’s not forget wine. But wait, there were so many more reasons I chose San Sebastián. I also came to see great art;  specifically the works of one of the most influential Spanish artists of the 20th century, Eduardo Chillida. Chillida was born in San Sebastián in 1924, and this year, the city is commemorating the 100th anniversary of his birth with a celebration titled “Eduardo Chillida 100 Years.” I knew that Chillida’s work appeared around the world (he has a sculpture in Houston), and wanted to learn more about this famous artist.  Be sure to read to the end, where I’ll tell you exactly where you can go to see Chillida’s impressive work for yourself. I promise it’ll be an experience you won’t forget.

Come along with me and explore San Sebastián, the seaside city that Forbes Magazine called “one of the best destinations in 2024.”

San Sebastián – the perfect city in the perfect location 

San Sebastian is a perfect blend of natural landscapes and city attractions. You’ll find it just 12 miles from the France-Spain border, on the Bay of Biscay between the Urgull and Igeldo Mountains. Also known as Donostia in its native language Euskera, San Sebastián is one of Europe’s most elegant and eclectic cities.

In addition to attracting tourists from around the world, San Sebastián has always been a favorite for royalty – from the 16th century when San Sebastián was a resort town for the Spanish royalty and aristocracy to today when it remains a vacation spot for the Spanish royal family. Part of San Sebastián’s charm is probably its size – it’s not too large (the population is about 186,000), but large enough to offer city amenities while still holding onto a fishing/coastal resort/European village vibe. 

San Sebastián is the capital of Spain’s Basque Country, an area known for its beautiful natural scenery, unspoiled beaches, and delicious food. While Spanish is spoken here, the Basque people take great pride in their native language of Euskera – one of Europe’s oldest languages. But don’t be surprised if you hear French being spoken as the area borders France, offering many charming villages for a day trip or overnight stay. 

Getting to San Sebastián

San Sebastian is easy to reach via bus, train, car, or plane. It’s close to the French border, so perhaps your trip could begin in one of France’s nearby villages – such as the chic and beachy Biarritz, the less crowded Saint Jean De Luz, or Saint Jean Pied De Port (one of the starting points of the Camino de Santiago).

My husband and I arrived in San Sebastián from Pamplona, where we’d just spent four days. (Read about our trip here.) For just 15 Euro each, we took an hour-ish bus ride from Pamplona’s city center to San Sebastián. Later that week we returned to Madrid on an inexpensive and quick flight, but we could’ve easily taken a bus or train. 

Getting Around San Sebastián

Bring comfortable shoes, because San Sebastián is extremely walkable – on city streets and along the boardwalk in front of the famous La Concha Beach. You can also choose from one of the city’s many public transportation options. There’s even a night bus running after midnight on weekends and the nights before major holidays.

Where to Stay in San Sebastián

If you want to be in the action and close to historical sites, pintxo bars, restaurants, and shops, consider the charming Old Town. But there are other options in the city’s distinct neighborhoods, so it’s best to do your research and decide whether you want to stay on the beach, near the nightlife, or in a quieter section of town. You can even stay in a neighboring village. We stayed at Hotel Niza which was absolutely charming, and ironically also was owned by the family of Eduardo Chillida, the artist whose work I’d traveled to see.  The view from our balcony of La Concha Beach is something I’ll never forget. It’s easy to see why La Concha Beach has been called “the best beach in Europe and Spain.” 

From the beaches to the mountains, San Sebastián is gorgeous 

If you love beaches, you’re in luck – there are three very lovely beaches in San Sebastián: La Zurriola Beach which attracts surfers from around the world, the quiet Ondarreta Beach, and La Concha Beach – Europe’s most famous urban beach with a promenade perfect for morning walks or runs and strolls all day long.  Named “La Concha” because of its shell-shape (la concha = shell in Spanish), people of all ages come here to swim, surf, windsurf, and kayak, while groups of kids play volleyball and beach soccer.

La Concha Beach is also a hotspot at night, with people walking along the promenade towards the Old Town, eating ice cream, and enjoying street musicians as well as displays of sand art on the well groomed beach.

In addition to walking along the beach, you can visit one of the mountains or trails surrounding San Sebastián for hiking and fun activities. 

10 Districts Means There’s Plenty to Do in San Sebastián

The city of San Sebastián is divided into ten districts or neighborhoods, each with its own personality and attractions. To really get an idea of where to go and what to do, according to your “must see” list, stop by the San Sebastian Tourism Office. It’s centrally located and known for its tours, numerous resources, and friendly staff. 

One of their helpful booklets helped me get the lowdown on what to see and do in the various districts of the city. In Igeldo take an old fashioned funicular railway for outstanding views of the city and La Concha Beach. Antiguo is a great spot to wander the streets – they’re full of traditional shops, fine cuisine, and a glimpse at the city’s earliest settlement. Miromón is home to see an untamed forest right in the city! Or maybe you’re into kings and queens and other royals? Head to Aiete to explore homes of the 19th century’s royalty. Old Town is the spot to be (day or night) and known for its pintxos and narrow paved streets and buildings, countless bars and restaurants. Plus, it has amazing boutiques and shops.

The surf’s always up in Gros, so be sure to head to this surfer district that’s also home to the hippest bars.  Art & culture lovers should go to Egia, it’s the hub for San Sebastián’s cultural and artistic options. And, if there’s a soccer fan in your group, stop at Reale Arena in the neighborhood of Amara, and finally enjoy a peaceful walk along the Urumeo River in Riberas. 

Attention Foodies… San Sebastián Is Calling

There’s a reason Condé Nast declared San Sebastián as “the best city to eat in 2023” – San Sebastián ranks #2 in the world for its number of Michelin Star restaurants per square mile – a fact that attracts foodies and chefs from around the world. Foodies come for the delicious cuisine at San Sebastián’s restaurants and pintxos bars, as well as the regional ciders (sagardoa) and  regional wine – Txakoli. Chefs come to study at the Basque Culinary Center. 

Michelin Star Restaurants

The Michelin Star restaurants found throughout San Sebastian and the surrounding area offer dishes that are as innovative as they are delicious.  Dining options include traditional and innovative Basque dishes, exquisitely prepared fresh fish, vegetable dishes, finely cured meats, and regional specialties using local, fresh produce. Not sure which restaurants to try? Here’s a guide with information on 8 of the finest. And, if you’d like to see where the fresh, local ingredients come from, head to La Bretxa or San Martin Markets for a display of the top-quality fresh produce on sale.  Here you can purchase prepared food to eat, spices, and other local specialties. 

Pintxos

If you prefer a series of smaller bites, enjoyed at several locations, you’re going to love the pintxos culture of San Sebastián. Pintxo bars are everywhere! But are you wondering exactly what pintxos are? And does the spelling give you a headache?  Pintxo is pronounced “peen-cho” (the t and x combined make the “ch” sound in the Basque language) and pintxos are “small snacks typically eaten in bars that are traditional in northern Spain.” They’re especially popular in the Basque country.

But “small snack” doesn’t do pintxos justice. In San Sebastián, pintxos are culinary creations, with each bar offering something a little different.  Pintxos bars are found throughout San Sebastián (and also northern Spain), but the best spot to go for pintxos is Old Town, where you’ll find at least 200 pintxo bars. 

Over the course of a couple of nights, we got a taste of San Sebastián with the help of a guided tour (ours was arranged by the San Sebastián Tourist Office) and by wandering the streets alone, trying bars that caught our attention. There’s really no right or wrong way to approach pintxos … the only thing to remember is there’s always another pintxo waiting for you, so pace yourself and enjoy the ride.

Some favorite pintxo spots included:

• Tamboril, a Michelin Star Restaurant where we tried the famous “Gilda” pintxo (pictured on the infographic) and the regional Txakoli wine. 

• Borda Berri – Offering innovative pintxos made with the freshest ingredients, this pintxo bar came highly recommended. It’s also the bar where I learned a pintxo secret – bars have hot pintxos as well as cold ones. You’ll find the hot ones noted on a chalkboard behind the bar.  One of the dishes we had was a delicious ravioli. Fun fact: while here, we saw the popular San Sebastian tour guide/foodie Gabriella Ranelli who I’d seen on a San Sebastián Gastronomy YouTube in this bar. Look her up if you visit the city!

• Baztan – this bar had amazing energy and a great system for ordering. All pintxos under the glass countertop have a number  – choose those you’d like to try and fill out a handy order form that you hand over to the waiter. Before you know it, your pintxos arrive at your table. 

• Gure Txoko was the highlight of our last night in San Sebastian. Known for its “unique blend of traditional flavors and modern culinary techniques” we were delighted with our food. I still think about the calamari I ordered. Plus, the wait staff was top notch and so friendly, making me wish we could come back another time. 

Beyond the Delicious Food, San Sebastián is a Cultural Dream Come True

For those who’d like to pair their food and wine with a bit of culture, San Sebastián delivers. The city offers more than 10 festivals per year – ranging from jazz to literature to its most famous, the International Film Festival held annually each September.  

In addition, San Sebastián is an elegant city with beautiful sights in every direction.  Just strolling through the streets offers beautiful displays of art and open air sculptures,  plus numerous museums and exhibitions both in the city and in nearby villages. 

For example, just a half hour drive from San Sebastian in the village of Getaria is the Cristobal Balenciaga Museum. We took a guided tour to this amazing museum where the collections of the iconic fashion designer Cristóbal Balenciaga Eizaguirre are exhibited. It’s really worth a trip to see his exquisite creations that have been adored by celebrities and fashion aficionados for decades.

Back in San Sebastián, art is found throughout the city – from museums to unexpected places like bus stops and trash receptacles. Spain has a way of making everything beautiful. It’s also not uncommon to see people painting in the parks, musicians playing along boulevards and in squares, and artists creating sand drawings on La Concha Beach.

ART and CULTURE and Architecture:

Speaking of art, let’s talk about one of the most influential artists of the 20th century, San Sebastián’s own Eduardo Chillida. Chillida is known for his colossal public installations that are made primarily of iron, wood, and steel. His great sculptural works are found near the sea in Spain, and in city squares of Washington, Paris, Madrid, Palma de Mallorca and Berlin. His work is also featured worldwide in collections at leading public and private institutions in Houston, Berlin, Madrid, London, Caracas and Palermo. 

An amazing place to learn about Chillida’s life and see his work is Chillida Leku, the sanctuary and outdoor museum the artist himself created on the outskirts of San Sebastián.  

I visited this sanctuary on a guided tour and had the privilege of meeting Chillida’s grandson, Mikel Chillida. Mikel spoke of the passion and vision that guided his grandfather as he created his beautiful works of art and how he brought Chillida Leku to life. Mikel told me that Chillida’s goal was to create a place (“Leku” means “place”) where future generations could experience his work. But he wanted the setting to be like no other. 

Our tour took us around the grounds as well as inside the beautiful exhibition space that was once Chillida’s country house. 

It’s safe to say that Chillida’s vision came to fruition – today, the property isn’t just a place to enjoy his sculptures (strolling through the property was absolutely idyllic); it’s also a multi-use facility, hosting yoga classes, art classes, company meetings and retreats, and other activities. In addition, visitors come to be one with nature and use Chillida’s work as a way to connect with the natural surroundings and themselves. Some even bring work or a book, and spend hours working or contemplating life on one of the benches found throughout the grounds.  If you make it to San Sebastián, a trip to Chillida Leku should be on your “must see” (or rather “must experience”) list. 

The Verdict? Add San Sebastian to your Must See List!

To sum things up, a trip to San Sebastián will not only satisfy your appetite, it’ll capture your heart. There’s something special you’ll feel when you visit this seaside city – it’s  a blend of the past and present, marked by a strong Basque pride and heritage with welcoming people who draw you in to enjoy all this elegant city has to offer. ¡Vamos!

(Let’s go!)

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Cover photo Abbey Algiers

Abbey Algiers is a freelance writer specializing in golf, travel, Spain, and lifestyle. She writes regularly for the LPGA Women’s Network and has written for GoNOMAD.com, including an account of her trip along the Camino de Santiago – one of GoNOMAD’s “Best of 2022.” Find more about Abbey on her website or in her weekly lifestyle newsletter.