Stunning coastal scenery and terracotta roofs overlooking multi-shaded blues and greens of the Adriatic Sea make Dubrovnik one of the most distinctive cities in southeastern Europe. 

Its rich cultural heritage and designation as a UNESCO World Heritage site, coupled with a sunny climate and seaside activities, add to the city’s appeal as a vacation destination. Birds-eye views from Dubrovnik’s medieval fortress walls, which skirt the perimeter of historic Old Town, make it easy to see why Dubrovnik is dubbed “the Pearl of the Adriatic.”

Vivid images of the picturesque city first inspired me to visit Croatia, and spending a few days at Dubrovnik Hotel Excelsior was a memorable highlight of my two-week visit along the Adriatic coast. The hotel boasts a magnificent setting perched along a hillside overlooking the sea and Old Town, and the lower level sits at water’s edge, inviting a dive from the stone terrace into the azure sea. From my balcony suite, almost instantly I felt a sense of calm, mesmerized by the majestic scenery and the sound of crashing waves against nearby granite cliffs. The serene setting seems far from the hubbub of the city, yet Old Town is just a short walk away.

An iconic hotel

Hotel Excelsior is a historical gem that boasts a long list of celebrity guests including Queen Elizabeth II, Elizabeth Taylor and many Hollywood celebs who are featured in photos along a wall of the hotel’s Piano Bar. A property of Adriatic Luxury Hotels, Excelsior combines the original, classic looking Villa Odak, which dates to 1913, and a sleek modern addition called the Tower. The two buildings connect and offer equally luxurious, albeit different styles, in 158 guest rooms and suites. 

There are three restaurants and the Energy Clinic Spa Center with an indoor swimming pool and fitness facility. Throughout the common areas, glass walls and flowered terraces feature unrivaled sea views.

Breakfast on the breezy terrace is a delight, and dinner at the hotel’s Sensus Fine Dining Restaurant is a culinary adventure highlighting fresh seafood, local garden produce and Croatian wines, although an extensive wine list includes selections from around the world. The chefs describe their cuisine as a fusion of Peruvian, Italian and Mediterranean classics with a modern twist. 

Order the tasting menu for a fun way to sample their creative dishes which feature specialties such as mixed ceviche marinated shrimp, Quinoa salad with beetroot and grapefruit, baked Parmesan scallops with chili butter, beef tenderloin and risotto, and Tres Leches, all paired with Croatia’s outstanding wines. Local wines include excellent sparkling, Plavac and Dingac reds, and popular whites such as Posip and Malvasija.

Guests can enjoy sunning and swimming from Excelsior’s seaside terrace, referred to as the “beach.” It is built along the rocky shore and has pool ladders into the sea, chaise loungers, shade umbrellas, and tubes for a relaxing float. Order a cocktail and fritto misto (deep fried fish) delivered to you, or enjoy lunch at Prora Restaurant. The beach area includes a unique rock swimming pool, filled by overflowing saltwater waves. Water levels vary with tides – low tide may bring only a few feet of seawater, and at high tide the pool overflows with surging waves.

Discover Dubrovnik

From the hotel, Old Town is a 10-minute walk along a coastal path and past the city’s popular pebble and sand beach. Dubrovnik is easy to explore on your own, or if you prefer a private tour, Hotel Excelsior offers tailor-made excursions through Adriatic Luxury Hotel Services. Old Town is nearly always abuzz with tourists and quite crowded, so it’s especially nice to retreat back to Excelsior after a day of exploring.  

Walk the walls

The defining landmark of Dubrovnik is the Old Town fortification, and walking around the top of the ramparts is a wonderful introductory tour of the city. The fortification complex dates from the 14th century and includes towers, bastions and fortresses, and it is one of the filming locations featured in HBO’s Game of Thrones. Be sure to explore Minceta Tower, originally built in 1318 and redesigned in 1464. Its top terrace is the highest part of the city walls. There is a fee for the one-way two-kilometer walking route, and if you decide not to walk the entire path, there are a few exit points along the way. Guided history tours and Game of Thrones tours are offered.

Old Town

Within the walls of Old Town there are many attractions from quaint cafés, restaurants and boutiques tucked into alcoves to street musicians and cultural sites. The pedestrian main street Stradun lies at the heart, a perfect place to have a coffee, people watch, and stroll the shiny limestone surface. Come ready to roam the charming alleys, climb stone staircases and see outstanding landmarks such as the Dubrovnik Belltower, the Cathedral, and Rectors Palace.

Mount Srd

For more top-of-the-world views, take the Dubrovnik Cable Car or walking path to the top of Mount Srd, a popular spot to watch the sunset. You can explore around the top, visit the gift shop and enjoy a meal at the Panorama Restaurant (reservations recommended.) If the weather is nice, patio dining here while gazing down upon the fairytale-like Old Town and taking in sweeping views that stretch to the horizon is a memorable experience.  

Excursions

Numerous coastal and island day trips are available from Dubrovnik. One of the favorite and closest excursions is the uninhabited island of Lokrum where, in 1192, Richard the Lionheart took shelter from a storm on his return from the crusades. Take a short ferry ride from Old Town port and spend the day hiking scenic trails, swimming from rocky beaches, or exploring a medieval Benedictine Monastery and botanical gardens. There is a restaurant and small museum, which details the island history. Guided sea kayaking tours to Lokrum are another way to explore the island, available from Banje Beach.

Cavtat, a peaceful village located just down the coast and near Dubrovnik Airport, has a waterfront promenade lined with palm trees, churches, a museum, outdoor restaurants, and boutiques. There is a scenic peninsula hiking trail and a nice public swim area with beach lounge chairs and umbrellas. Have lunch or stay at Hotel Supetar, another property of Adriatic Luxury Hotels. The lovely boutique hotel in an old manor house was recently renovated and features local art, a pool surrounded by verdant gardens, and a wonderful restaurant serving Mediterranean cuisine, local wines, and even fresh-squeezed juice from the hotel’s orange trees.

Beach and Bar

Dubrovnik’s main city beach is the pebbled/sandy Banje Beach, adjacent to Hotel Excelsior, and it offers lounge chairs to rent and a snack bar. For more adventure, head to Buza Bar, located on the rocks beneath the walls of Old Town. At this popular cliff-side lounge and unique watering hole, guests are allowed to climb around on the rock ledges and make a high jump into the sea. If you’re not inclined to plunge, it’s still fun to watch the action! My daughter and her friend leapt, not I.

With plentiful attractions, Dubrovnik is worth a visit on its own, but the city is also a departure port for cruising among the Dalmatian islands – as it was for me and my daughter, before embarking on a cycling cruise to the outer islands, where we explored by bike. But that’s another story, another ode to Croatia.

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Cover photo A. Yungmeyer.

A native Tennessean, Ann has been freelance writing for 20 years for publications and corporate clients. A member of Society of American Travel Writers, she explores culinary, cultural and nature themes in unique getaways and activity-based travel. Read more of her stories online.