From Grunge to Green: Discovering Bellevue’s Tranquil Charm Beyond Seattle’s Urban Core

by Jennifer Simonson on September 27, 2024 in Travels,
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I visited the Pacific Northwest for the first time last year for an assignment retracing Kurt Cobain’s stomping grounds for the 30th anniversary of his death. 

Four whirlwind days were spent hopping from bar to bar, wandering through the grunge-era alleys of the city. While I was focused on a five-square-mile radius of Seattle’s urban core, the rugged beauty of the landscape outside every window kept catching my eye. I found myself thinking, “I need to come back here and explore more than just the city.”

So, when I was recently invited to explore the natural side of eastern Seattle, I jumped at the chance. Bellevue—meaning “Beautiful View” in French—sits across Lake Washington from Seattle. Nestled between Lake Washington and Lake Sammamish, and less than an hour’s drive from three major national parks, this city of about 150,000 residents is an outdoor lover’s dream. Locals often say it’s “a city within a park,” and with more than 100 parks spread throughout Bellevue, you’re never far from green space.

Bellevue Botanical Garden

“We’re a park in a city in a park,” said Bellevue Botanical Garden’s Director, James Gagliardi, as we strolled through the gardens. Spanning 53 acres, this garden is a lush oasis of cultivated plants, restored woodlands, and natural wetlands. It’s free to visitors and open 365 days a year. Trails link up with the surrounding area, making it an ideal spot for anyone wanting to experience the essence of Pacific Northwest nature without venturing too far from the city.

“If you’re attending a convention downtown and want to escape to the forests of the Pacific Northwest but can’t make it all the way to the national parks, you can take a 10-minute ride here,” James added.

Enjoying the pond at the Bellevue Downtown Park. Photo Jennifer Simonson.

One of the standout features of the Botanical Garden is the Ravine Experience, where a 1/3-mile nature trail crosses a deep ravine into the most pristine of Bellevue’s wild spaces. A 150-foot suspension bridge spans the ravine, offering visitors breathtaking views of native understory, wildlife, and towering conifers without disturbing the forest floor. For those looking to immerse themselves even deeper into the tranquility, practices like mindfulness meditation and Shinrin-Yoku (Japanese Forest Bathing) are encouraged.

The City of Innovation and Opulence

Bellevue’s allure doesn’t stop at its parks. Its proximity to nature, combined with its booming tech scene, has made it one of the wealthiest regions in the world. Giants like Microsoft, Amazon, T-Mobile, and Postmates have headquarters or major offices nearby, and their presence is palpable in Bellevue’s luxury waterfront homes.

“If you look at the windows of these homes, you’ll see the kind of wealth in the area,” said Captain Matt as we cruised along Billionaire’s Row. Bill Gates, Jeff Bezos, and other titans of industry own sprawling estates in the still waters of Lake Washington. All have manicured lawns, private docks, and boats, but what our captain was referring to was a life size T-Rex skeleton prominently displayed in one of the waterfront mansions. Known locally as the “T-Rex House, the prehistoric beast stares out through the massive, rounded windows. Rumors have it that the owner used his tech-fueled weather to fund a dinosaur bone digging foundation, and that very skeleton is one of the T-Rex fossils he helped unearth. 

Kayaking Lake Washington

We got a second chance to see the T-Rex house the following day when we kayaked the lake. When we arrived at REI’s Boathouse in Meydenbauer Bay Park, we headed toward the pedestrian pier for a brief kayak lesson. From the shoreline, the lake stretched out in front of us, framed by lush greenery. We launched into the shimmering lake and paddled the calm waters. Normally, on clear days, you can catch a glimpse of Mt. Rainier from the middle of the bay, but the haze in the air obscured it.

Downtown Bellevue: Where Nature and City Life Meet

Walking in Downtown Park. Photo Jennifer Simonson.

Bellevue offers a peaceful retreat while still being at the center of innovation. Whether you’re exploring its parks, kayaking along its shores, or marveling at its blend of nature and modernity, it’s a city that invites you to slow down and take it all in.

On my last morning in town, I made my way to Bellevue Downtown Park, a place that feels both expansive and intimate. The lawn, a perfect circle of green, is bordered by trees that seem to stand guard, while the 240-foot waterfall softens the noise of the city with its steady rhythm. It was one of those places that tricks you into forgetting where you are—surrounded by concrete and glass. On a clear day, they say you can see Mount Rainier from here, the snow-capped peak standing tall against the skyline. But today wasn’t one of those days.

The nice part about being in a park within a city is that once you’re done with the park part, you can head over to the city part for a nice glass of wine. Old Bellevue, located on Main Street, is a charming area with brick-paved sidewalks, locally-owned restaurants, and quaint shops. This part of the city has a rich history, dating back to the late 1800s, when it was a small, rural settlement. Now, it retains a touch of that historic charm while blending in a modern sensibility.

Wine, Chocolate, and a Perfect Ending

We stopped by the Browne Family Vineyards tasting room for a glass of locally produced Sauvignon Blanc before heading next door to Monsoon Bellevue for some contemporary Vietnamese food. If you’re shopping in Old Bellevue, make sure to stop by Fran’s Chocolates. A friendly woman will hand you a sample of salted chocolate caramel and tell you that Fran’s was the first shop to sprinkle salt on their chocolates. I have no idea if this is true or not, but the morsel of chocolate caramel was probably the best piece of candy I’ve ever had in my life.

As I took the last bite of that salted caramel, it hit me—this is what Bellevue is all about. It’s the quiet moments, the balance between the old and the new, nature and progress, indulgence and simplicity. It’s a city where you can kayak in the morning, stroll through parks in the afternoon, and sip wine in a charming old district by evening. Nothing here shouts for attention, but if you slow down and take a closer look, it all starts to reveal itself—subtle, deliberate, and undeniably beautiful.

Bellevue may not have the gritty allure of a place like Seattle, but that’s what makes it special. It’s a place that doesn’t need to prove anything. It just is. And sometimes, that’s all you need. Just a good view, a great piece of chocolate, and a moment to breathe.

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Cover photo Colin Walker, Bellevue Parks Community Services

Jennifer Simonson is a proud 7th generation Texan. She is a travel writer by trade and a lover of the world’s food, cultures, drinks and outdoor spaces by nature.