Discovering Holiday Magic on Lady Bird Lake

I grew up skating on frozen ponds in Rye, New York, not far from where the Rangers practice. I played ice hockey in college. But I haven’t laced up my skates in years, and I definitely never expected to rediscover that muscle memory on a rink built atop a hotel pool in seventy-degree Austin weather.

Yet here I was at Ice Rodeo at Four Seasons Hotel Austin, executing crossovers with surprising ease while my college-aged son spun graceful circles across the ice and my husband skated beside me, smiling. It was so wonderful to be enjoying an event with the kids that required absolutely nothing from us…all we had to do was enjoy.

This was our first Ice Rodeo experience, and I’m already planning to make it a tradition.

The 120-Foot Tunnel of Lights

We arrived with our crew: my husband and me, our three kids, and two friends. The moment we stepped through the 120-foot tunnel of twinkling lights that arches over the entrance, we entered a different world. Thousands of lights formed a glittering canopy overhead, creating an Instagram-worthy passage that had my teenage daughter immediately borrowing my phone.

“Mom, there are so many incredible spots for photos here,” she said, already scouting backdrops. Later she’d tell me to pass along this advice: “Tell everyone it’s perfect for selfies!”

An Escape from the City Inside the City

The Four Seasons Hotel Austin sits on the shores of Lady Bird Lake, and during Ice Rodeo season — Nov. 21, 2025, through Jan. 4, 2026 — it transforms into a sparkling winter wonderland that feels worlds away from downtown traffic, even though you’re right in the heart of it all.

Beyond the light tunnel, the 3,360-square-foot outdoor ice rink glows beneath the Texas sky. Elaborate Texas-themed installations dot the property, including a spectacular lighted reindeer and oversized illuminated ornaments that create magic against the Austin skyline.

Skating Under the Stars

Here’s the Austin paradox: ice skating in November when it’s still warm enough for short sleeves. The rink is built using state-of-the-art chillers that keep the ice perfectly frozen regardless of the temperature. Open daily from 4:00 p.m. to 9:00 p.m. with varying hours throughout the season, the rink offers one-hour skating sessions that include skate rentals.

My sons and their friends circled the rink with growing confidence. Meanwhile, I felt that familiar glide return to my stride, muscle memory from those New York winters kicking in as I picked up speed.

The Cozy Cabin Experience

After our skating session, my husband and I retreated to our reserved rink-side cabin while the kids continued making loops around the ice. These lodge-inspired cabins accommodate up to six guests and offer two hours of private, festive refuge. Starting at $450 for a two-hour rental, they’re perfect for families or intimate gatherings.

Our cabin came with plush seating, seasonal décor, and most importantly, a curated menu that elevated typical rink food to Four Seasons standards. We ordered beef sliders, birra nachos, hot pretzels, hot apple cider, and rich hot cocoa. But the real star? Tableside s’mores that let us channel our inner campfire nostalgia while watching ice skaters and city lights…and listening to live music.

The Gingerbread Masterpiece

Inside the lobby, Executive Pastry Chef Amanda Pallagi’s gingerbread display stopped us in our tracks. This year’s creation features a Polar Express–inspired train journey with Texas touches — a massive gingerbread mountain complete with miniature trees, elaborate train cars, and meticulous detail that must have taken hundreds of hours.

Guests can have their names added to the display with all proceeds benefiting Dell Children’s Medical Center, turning the edible art into philanthropy.

Planning Your Ice Rodeo Visit

Four Seasons offers several ways to experience Ice Rodeo. Individual skating tickets can be purchased on the Ice Rodeo website and include a one-hour session plus access to the festivities. For overnight guests, the Ice Rodeo Escape package (available for stays of two nights or more) includes two hours in a private cabin, one hour of ice skating for two with rentals, two drink tickets, and a festive welcome amenity.

Beyond skating, The Deck pop-up lounge overlooks the festivities with specialty cocktails and caviar from 1:00 p.m. to midnight. The Holiday A-Tea-X afternoon tea service offers festive treats from 1:00 p.m. to 3:00 p.m. daily.

Adding to Our Holiday List

As we gathered our group for one last loop around the rink before heading home, I watched my daughter capturing moments on my borrowed phone, my sons confidently skating with friends, and the twinkling lights reflecting off Lady Bird Lake.

Ice Rodeo just landed at the top of our family’s holiday activities list. We’ll be back.

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Cover Photo by Nora Meckel.

Amanda Eyre Ward is a New York Times bestselling novelist, TV writer, and travel writer whose work appears in Travel + Leisure, Bon Appétit, and Food & Wine. She lives with her family in Austin, Texas. Her new novel, ARRIVALS AND DEPARTURES, will be published in July. Amanda recently spoke about her travel writing and novels with Marika Flatt and PR by the Book.