Traveling on the River Thames offers a unique perspective for learning about England’s culture and history. Beginning in the Cotswolds, the river flows through lush countryside and historic cities such as Oxford and Windsor, before it reaches London.

Cruising the Thames on the hotel barge Magna Carta is an unforgettable experience. With customized tours, delicious meals paired with elegant wines, and spacious comfortable cabins, you only have to be. 

Within a very short time you’ve left the hustle and bustle of London behind. Your breathing slows and seems to keep pace with the ripples in the river. In the morning, a symphony of bird song calls you to enjoy the sunrise.

The six-day journey from London to Henley-on-Thames (the cruise also travels in the opposite direction) includes all meals, tours, an open bar including spirits, wine and beer, transfers to and from the barge, occasional guide, and ample time to take in the countryside beyond London.

What to Expect

Magna Carta is a vintage cargo barge that has been beautifully transformed into a hotel; she now travels exclusively on the River Thames. 

Accommodating up to eight passengers plus four or five crew members, Magna Carta can be booked by individuals comfortable with traveling in close quarters with strangers, or the entire barge can be chartered. I traveled on the Magna Carta as a solo passenger. I was joined by five other passengers who were all strangers to me and each other, except for the couples who were traveling together. It was amazing how quickly the crew and passengers bonded, as if we’d known each other much longer. 

During the time spent cruising, most of us were outside on the forward deck, feeding the always-hungry swans that trailed after us, and dreaming about owning one of the many gorgeous homes that lined parts of the river. 

Royal Thames Itinerary

Our delightful driver and occasional guide, Sarah Jayne, arranged all of the tickets to explore places like Windsor Castle, Highclere Castle (Downton Abbey), and Christchurch College in Oxford. Sometimes she led a tour but more often they were self-guided audio tours. After giving us the details we needed for the tour, Sarah Jayne dropped us off after explaining where and when to meet for pickup. As it was July and high season, it seemed we were often rushing about trying to get ahead of the crowds. Overall, it was never an issue, except at Christchurch where many groups of schoolkids were there to see Harry Potter film locations.

We moored at Hampton Court Palace, Windsor, Hurley, and Clivedon Reach. Each offered an opportunity to explore historic sites within easy reach; in some cases, like Windsor and Hurley, you could walk off the boat and into the town.  

My favorite mooring was Hurley, a quintessential English village with a church, two pubs, and an inn. We went as a group to Ye Olde Bell, the oldest pub in England, accompanied by a crew member who gave us a bit of history on Hurley. We also visited a boatyard, which was a lot more interesting than I expected. You don’t need to own a boat or even care much about them to admire the craftsmanship that goes into restoring vintage boats. 

Cabins on the Magna Carta

There are four guest rooms with either a king bed or twin bed configurations. All rooms have ensuite bathrooms with heated towel racks, and were surprisingly spacious for a barge. In keeping with the rest of the boat, rooms are decorated in dark blues and wood tones. I had the Henry VIII room, complete with framed prints of Henry and his six wives watching over me. The beds were comfortable, rooms were air-conditioned, and there was daily maid service.

When we weren’t gathered around the dining table, we retired to the lounge (same room) furnished with four love seats. The lounge was light and bright with ample windows… you could always see the scenery, and the room was comfortable and homey rather than luxurious. There’s also a hot tub on deck, as well as bicycles for use when moored.

Food and Wine 

Aside from the scenery and tours, the meals were a highlight of the journey for me. Breakfast was a casual affair with no requirement for us to be at the table together. However, lunch and dinner were served at specific times each day, based on our schedule for excursions and mooring. Dinner was usually three or four courses and included a dessert. 

Our chef, Tom, constructed a menu that included some special requests, as well as working in some traditional English meals. Adding his unique spin, gained from years working in Michelin-star establishments, every meal was beautifully plated. There were always two wines paired with lunch and dinner but you could also request whatever you preferred. 

One of my favorite meals had an Italian theme, requested by the other passengers. Of course, I wasn’t going to disagree with that decision. On the menu were caprese salad, rocket and pesto flatbread, spaghetti Bolognese, mixed fish puttanesca, and a charcuterie plate. The puttanesca fish was my favorite, but I tried it all. Wine pairings were Villa Broglia Gavi di Gavi and Tenuta Fenice Nero d’ Avola. 

At the end of the journey, we all agreed that we’d eaten a little too well…but no one was complaining. 

The Magna Carta was my first experience on a barge cruise, though I’ve been on many river cruises on larger ships. The smaller boat allows you a more up close and personal experience of local heritage and culture, which includes the gastronomy. I would have liked more time on some of the tours, especially Oxford, and more information about the river and the places where we moored, though Hurley was well covered. 

If you love river cruising and would like to experience something more intimate, more immersive, a barge cruise could be just the thing. Even if you’ve never been on a cruise but like the idea of a luxury, small group experience, a hotel barge cruise might be perfect for you. 

If you plan to stay in London for a few days before or after, you will enjoy my article featuring tips for navigating the public transportation, weather, clothing, and a lot more. 

You can book a cruise with Magna Carta directly on their website or with the company who arranged my trip, Barge Lady Cruises. 

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Cover photo Penny Sadler

Penny Sadler is a Dallas-based writer covering travel, food and drink, and lifestyle, with bylines in CNBC Travel, Culture Magazine, Inside Hook, and Cheese Professor. When she’s not traveling she puts her camera ready makeup skills to work on commercials, films, and events. Follow her on Instagram @adventuresofacarryon and her website.