From luxurious suites and woodland treehouses to coastal walks and cooking classes, Chewton Glen offers a quintessential English countryside escape. 

A Country House on the Edge of the Forest

I arrived at Chewton Glen Hotel & Spa, a five-star Relais & Châteaux property located in New Milton, Hampshire, England, expecting polished luxury…and I found it, right down to the silver tray service. What I didn’t expect was to feel so inspired by the location.

Bordering the New Forest (established by William the Conqueror in 1079 as a royal hunting ground and now a national park), Chewton Glen offers many delightful paths to wander into the ancient forest.

You can also walk to the coast at Barton-on-Sea in about twenty minutes. I did just that early the next morning and was treated to a view of the Isle of Wight in the distance. 

A Storybook History

Chewton Glen’s history is just as enchanting as its location, especially for a writer. Captain Frederick Marryat, a Royal Navy officer turned novelist, stayed at the house while writing The Children of the New Forest. His brother George owned the country house from 1837 to 1855, and the captain’s memory lives on in themed rooms throughout the house.

The story I loved most about Chewton Glen, though, was about the smugglers. Back then, they hauled their contraband up from the shore, across these very grounds, and into the forest beyond. Even the name has a whiff of the sea. It comes from Chewton Bunny, a wooded ravine just south of the house. A sea captain like Marryat surely heard those tales…who knows, maybe they found their way into his writing.

My Suite (and the Treehouses I’m Saving for Next Time)

No two rooms at Chewton Glen are alike. I stayed in the coach house mezzanine suite. It was so spacious, I felt it was a shame not to share it with friends. Downstairs, hardwood floors in the living area lead to a private courtyard. With two sofas, a dining table, a large-screen television, a writing desk, plus curio cabinets and Howard chairs, there is enough seating to host a proper soiree, though officially the suite sleeps five.

Upstairs, the king bedroom included my own personal balcony. The bathroom features a separate tub and shower, double sinks, a towel warmer, a robe and slippers, and luxury bath products…truly, I wanted for nothing.

The décor mixes antiques with modern pieces. The bedroom is done in light, soft colors, giving a cozy rather than formal feeling…the kind of room you actually want to spend time in. A chaise lounge reminded me of one my grandmother had—it was a favorite nap spot.

Across the fifty-eight rooms and suites at Chewton Glen, square footage ranges from approximately 300 to 700 sq. ft. Some, such as the croquet lawn rooms, are dog-friendly, and many have private terraces and balconies. There’s also a hot tub suite with an outdoor hot tub. The variety of rooms can accommodate a couple or a family of four or five. As Chewton Glen is a very family-centric property, every room includes cozy seating and space to spread out.

Then there are the treehouse suites, tucked into the woods with private decks and hot tubs. These are a somewhat new addition and were fully booked during my stay, so I couldn’t sneak a peek. They’re at the top of my list for next time.

Breakfast, Lunch, and a Japanese Cooking Class

Breakfast is served in the dining room and the adjacent conservatory-style room. The menu offers buffet-style service plus a menu of cooked-to-order dishes. Service is friendly, though it could be slow. If you’re on a schedule, allow a little extra time.

For a casual lunch, I had a sandwich in one of the lounges, where you could also order drinks or afternoon tea. The doors open onto an outdoor patio with plenty of lounge chairs, which I observed were full of families enjoying drinks, food, and each other. It was a sociable scene that felt nothing like a stuffy five-star hotel.

I’d been on a bit of a Japanese food binge prior to my stay at Chewton Glen, and coincidentally, the cooking school was offering a Japanese cooking class during my stay.

Japanese food in the English countryside, taught by an Irish chef? Why not? Chef Gary was quite witty and kept us laughing as we worked. We learned to make sushi, yakitori, and tempura. My key takeaway regarding sushi making is that the most important part is getting the rice right. The hardest part was rolling it correctly.

My two classmates were local fellows, not hotel guests. That’s when I realized that Chewton Glen is not only for travelers but a very popular place among locals, too. 

For dinner, the Dining Room is the hotel’s fine-dining restaurant, spread across several rooms, including the Summer House conservatory and the glass-fronted Wine Room, which shows off an impressive wine collection. For something more relaxed, The Kitchen has an open kitchen and casual wooden tables. There are tables outside as well, surrounded by raised beds and a greenhouse that supplies the menu. The Kitchen is also home to the cooking school, where I enjoyed not only my lesson but the bountiful results of it. Over at the spa, the Pool Bar serves lighter, healthier fare.

Into the Forest and Down to the Sea

While the hotel is a stunner, the setting is the star, from the expansive lawns to walking trails in the woods. I mentioned an early-morning coastal walk to Barton-on-Sea…if you have time, keep walking to Milford on Sea. From Barton-on-Sea, it’s about a three to four mile walk to Hurst Castle, built by Henry VIII in the 1540s. The castle is now a museum managed by the English Heritage Trust. 

Back on the estate, there’s plenty to keep you busy: a nine-hole, par-3 golf course, tennis courts, and a croquet lawn, just to remind you that you’re in England. Leave time to wander the kitchen garden and orchards, too.

Fun fact: Chewton Glen keeps more than 50 working beehives, which provide the estate’s honey.

A Spa Worth the Trip, and a Place for Neighbors

My only look at Chewton Glen’s award-winning spa was from the cafe above the swimming pool. The 17-meter indoor pool is joined by a hydrotherapy pool, aromatherapy saunas, crystal steam rooms, a nail studio, a fitness suite, and a pool bar with a sun terrace. Twelve treatment rooms offer everything from facials to body treatments. Next time I’m there, a spa day is mandatory.

The spa is also part of what ties Chewton Glen to the people who live nearby. Locals can join as spa members, and between memberships, cooking classes, lunches, community get-togethers, and corporate meetings, the house hums with neighbors as well as travelers. Many hotel guests are regulars, too.

That mix gives the place its warmth. Even the large, comfortable sitting rooms, which were quiet when I visited, felt ready for the next family gathering.

Getting There

Chewton Glen is in Hampshire, about an hour and a half from London by train. The nearest station is New Milton, a five- to ten-minute drive from the hotel.

Why I Didn’t Want to Leave

Between the forest trails, the sea air, and a cooking class with a witty Irish chef, Chewton Glen gave me exactly what I look for in travel: a place that feels lived in, and people who make you feel at home. If you’re dreaming of an English country house escape, go. And book one more night than you think you need.

My stay at Chewton Glen was hosted. All opinions are my own. 

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Cover Photo Penny Sadler

Penny Sadler is a Dallas-based writer covering travel, food and drink, and lifestyle, with bylines in CNBC Travel, Culture Magazine, Inside Hook, and Cheese Professor. When she’s not traveling she puts her camera ready makeup skills to work on commercials, films, and events. Follow her on Instagram @adventuresofacarryon and her website.