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For the dreamiest escape, choose to experience joie de vivre (n. French for exuberant enjoyment of life) in The French Riviera. A week is the minimum amount of time to soak up this gorgeous coastline of France.
Maybe my fascination with France all started with binging “Emily in Paris” during the Covid lockdown. Then it was reinspired a bit later at a lunch featuring Cote d’Azur tourism.
I was lucky enough to see “The American Riviera” (Santa Barbara, California) a few years ago, but it wasn’t until I actually got to see The French Riviera that I really understood what that nomenclature meant. Seeing the beautiful sea and sand bordered by mountains with the town nestled in between, peppered with red Spanish tiled roofs, it all came together.
I’m a sucker for an accessible beach and walking promenade so Nice had me at their fantastic Promenade des Anglais, a beachside walkway that travels the entire length of the city. Whether it was walking along the water in the bright sunlight or strolling in the evening with the city lights popping all around, this type of scene is heavenly to me.
Quick Facts
Nice, capital of the Alpes-Maritimes department on the French Riviera, sits on the pebbly shores of the Baie des Anges. Founded by the Greeks and later a retreat for 19th-century European elite, the city has also long attracted artists. Former resident Henri Matisse is honored with a career-spanning collection of paintings at Musée Matisse. Musée Marc Chagall features some of its namesake’s major religious works.
Getting There
The overnight red eye flight from Austin to London happens seven nights a week. It’s absolutely the easiest way to get over to Europe. From there, take a smaller flight from London to Nice. It’s a very small airport, and it’s easy to grab an Uber to your hotel.
As the plane nears Nice, you’ll fly over cavernous craters, then above the water with its Caribbean blue tint that melds into brown, and the air strip is right off the water in Nice.
Resting in Nice
AC Hotel Nice (from $175/night), just half a block from the sea, is part of the Marriott brand and has everything you might need for a wonderful stay — more than nice — in Nice.
Bonjour! Matthew at the front desk provided a warm welcome. The large king room with a view of the sea was a welcome sight after the overnight flight. (But don’t let yourself fall asleep until night time, to help with jet lag.) Even the bathroom, with a spacious standup shower, bathtub and separate toilet and bidet area, seemed expansive. The bed was oh so comfortable after a long day of travel and then walking all around town.
It’s extremely convenient to get the breakfast package added on and have access to a full wonderful breakfast spread from 7 a.m. to 10:30 a.m., whether you’re wanting a protein packed start to your day or a traditional croissant and yogurt breakky, it’s right on the bottom floor.
This part of Nice is absolutely perfect as a walkable city, no need for cars or public transportation at all. We walked all over during the four days we were there, only renting a bicycle once.
Once the sun starts going down, walk over to Old Town Nice, which is only about 30 minutes from the hotel: an easy walk along the promenade.
Old Town Nicoise Noshing
Run by the third generation of a French Italian family, this cozy café has both indoor and outdoor seating. A real hotspot for locals and tourists alike, it’s nestled into a quaint Old Town lane. Don’t miss the hard boiled truffle eggs and the Bolognese pasta.
Also in the heart of Old Town, and brimming with locals, the indoor/ outdoor cafe featured many Italian dishes on its menu. Try the Hot Trio Platter (featuring chickpea fries, onion pies and stuffed veggies with meat) with a bottle of Chianti. Then enjoy the oven-baked beef ravioli or if you’re looking for a very rich pasta, go for the gnocchi smothered in gorgonzola.
L’Escalinada
A small French café, this location was less crowded (but it was also a Tuesday night). With superior customer service, I felt like we were welcomed into someone’s local home. Start with their Nicoise Salad, then move on to the Fisherman’s Pot with homemade rouille and croutons. Or, go all in with the ratatouille!
Cannes: You can make it happen!
Most Americans have heard of Cannes because of the Cannes Film Festival which brings the glitz and glamour of Hollywood to the French Riviera. But this seaside village is a quick 25 minute train ride from Nice and oh so worth the time. The small village features around 400 restaurants! Most of them have glorious outside patios where guests will take their time dining on a three hour meal. Oui!
The Barriere Group has 19 hotels (one of which is this one we brought you in St. Barth) — two of which are in Cannes. Hôtel Barrière Le Majestic Cannes (from $510/night) sits right across from the beach in a beautiful U-shape with 350 rooms, most of them with a sea view. Various suites here are occupied by celebrities for the many festivals and events that take place in Cannes. One such opulent suite is the Christian Dior Suite, with its multiple rooms and a table that seats 10, which runs €35,000 per night! But the regular rooms are wonderful as a treat during your time on the French Riviera.
The hotel’s general manager Charles Richez says that the hotel’s great location, where you can walk anywhere in the village, is one of the reasons that people come here year after year. Their beach club restaurant, La Plage Barrière Le Majestic, is being redone this next year to feature a blue and white decor, and is where most people choose to hang out midday. Order a bottle of chablis, a seasonal gnocchi, and a fresh salad, and just pass the time in the most exquisite fashion.
Treat yourself to a relaxation massage at Spa Diane on property, followed by cocktails featuring botanicals from Le Majestic’s aromatic gardens created by bar manager Emanuele Balestra, and a spectacular dinner at their fine dining restaurant Fouquet’s. Fouquet’s features dishes like the classic Tartare de Boeuf Classique, the indulgent Rigatoni à la Truffe Noire, and for dessert, the delicious Fondant au chocolat automnal. With no fewer than 12 Michelin stars to his name, Pierre Gagnaire ensures every bite is a celebration of French culinary excellence.
High season runs from May through August, with a bit of a shoulder season starting around Easter and going through mid October. This spectacular hotel is really one for the bucket list!
Back to Nice
Hotel La Pérouse Nice (from $183/night) sits high on the coastline corner atop Old Nice, right across from the #ILoveNice sign. Know where you’re going so that you can find the somewhat hidden door off the main street and you’ll find this vintage hotel to be quite the maze worth exploring.
Ask for a patio room overlooking the blue sea to experience the hero of the house at this historic hotel. With planes flying over to the airport, you’ll be right in the middle of the action in just the most perfect way. With the hotel’s signature yellow interior motif, you’ll sink into the comfortable bedding and find that it is the ideal location to explore various sides of the city by day and stroll through Old Town at night.
I recommend choosing the daily breakfast option upon your reservation so that you can either dine on your exquisite patio or down by the interior pool on a lower floor.
Make it a point to have dinner at Restaurant Le Patio and, if the weather is nice, dine on the lovely terrace bordered with lemon trees. Chef Damien Andrews will wow you with his Mediterranean and seasonal cuisine.
Right next to the hotel is the spectacular climb up to the Tour Bellanda and then you can take a short uphill hike to the fabulous Point de Vue, a spacious city park featuring lookouts, green spaces, and even a glorious waterfall!
The Perfect Daytrip
Utilize Daytrip to have your own private car pick you up in Nice and take you over for a bougie experience in Monte Carlo. Start with an Americano coffee on the outside patio at Café du Paris, followed by a beautiful walk along the port where you can take a nice hike up to the Royal Castle and walk through the Japanese garden.
Daytrip makes it so incredibly easy as your personal driver will pick you up wherever you want to start and bring you back from your daytrip to the exact location.
Trip Tips
- Old Town Nice is the quaint (slightly overpriced) tourist zone where you’ll want to spend your evenings. Always make reservations for dinner.
- If you’ll be taking trains, reserve through Rail Europe and the SNCF Connect app is helpful.
- Visit the Russian Orthodox Cathedral to see its gorgeous outside and indoor painted glory, which can be found through The French Riviera Pass.
Our friends at Afar have some good news about heading to Nice in 2025!
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Cover photo Marika Flatt
Marika Flatt, Outstanding Austin Communicator 2021, is the Travel Editor of Texas Lifestyle Magazine. She began her travel writing career in 2002, and can be seen as a contributor on TV shows across Texas, such as KVUE, Daytime (FOX), San Antonio Living, Good Morning Texas, and KXAN! Marika spent five years as the voice of the “Weekend Trip Tip” on NPR’s Texas Standard pre-Covid. You can find her on Instagram and other social media platforms.
