Plan your Haywood County getaway with remote lodges, scenic hikes, and farm-fresh flavors between the Great Smoky Mountains and Blue Ridge Mountains.

“As long as I live, I’ll hear waterfalls and birds and winds sing. I’ll interpret the rocks, learn the languages of flood, storm, and the avalanche. I’ll acquaint myself with the glaciers and wild gardens, and get as near the heart of the world as I can.” -John Muir

Turn on mountain time in the laid-back Haywood County, North Carolina, that encompasses five towns (Waynesville, Maggie Valley, Canton, Clyde and Lake Junaluska), 46 miles of the famous Blue Ridge Parkway and sits among the Great Smoky Mountains National Park.

From Texas, fly into Asheville, North Carolina, and Haywood County is approximately 45 minutes west. This is an amazing spot to catch vibrant fall foliage colors but you can also enjoy their off-season in winter and a coolcation in summer where their temperature highs only get into the 80s.

Because Haywood County encompasses five towns, you can find just about any accommodation to fit your group size and your budget. Take a look at a few of the recommended options here. 

 

The Pigeon River Manor. Video Marika Flatt.

Visitors will indulge in ample farm to table dining (Trip tip: You’ll find pimento cheese on just about every menu), agritourism, and some of the most fulfilling hiking trails. And, most importantly, this location is budget friendly!

Staying in the Woods: Pigeon River Mountain Retreat

If you’ve got a big group, this is the place to be tucked into the mountains. They only rent to large groups so you really need 20 to 30 people to make it happen here. They have a side A and a side B, which they will rent separately or some people will rent the whole property for weddings, corporate retreats, church events, and large family reunions. However, if you have a group of families or a family reunion and you’re looking to find an amazing place that is basically cut off from the rest of the world, this is it!

I had the pleasure of staying in the largest luxury cabin called Pigeon River Manor, which is three floors, five bedrooms and three bathrooms. It even had a super cool speakeasy on the bottom floor! I really loved the large living area with a comfortable couch, fireplace, and open kitchen. My king size bedroom was uber-comfortable and our small group had plenty of space to spread out. I also enjoyed creating my own hot/cold wellness circuit utilizing the hot tub on the bottom floor, the natural pool in the beautiful Pigeon River that flowed right by the cabin, and the sauna in a separate cabin in the back.

The property encompasses 12 cabins on 500 acres. Side A & B together averages around $5,000 a night (average is three nights) and handles up to 60 people so your group would be looking at an average of $15,000 for the entire property for a three night stay.

However, in January and February, it averages around $3,000 per night and remember that you get the entire property, like Mercedes does for their corporate retreats.

In the summer, you can enjoy a lazy river day of tubing where you can catch Class One to Class Three rapids. The property is in a temperate rainforest filled with beautiful trees and guests can catch various wildlife on property (including deer and black bears).

The riverfront is very close to the Manor and is great for swimming. Video Marika Flatt.

During a tour, we were able to see the beautiful riverfront for swimming, The Tavern on a hill where the Pigeon River and Jonathan Creek converge, and the amphitheater that’s being built to host concerts once per month.

Other features include the ability to reserve Paul Simon’s personal chef onsite, guests can have groceries ordered in advance and delivered, and there’s even a helipad for those upscale visitors.

Our cabin had its very own speakeasy. Video Marika Flatt.

I also love that each cabin features its own separate building with a fully stocked game room for kids of all ages, where they can even sleep apart from the parents if they choose. It’s extremely safe on the property because the gate at the front only allows paying guests onto the property.

One of my favorite buildings on property is called The Loft with big barn doors that open up to a beautiful patio, a table for eight (that came from Donna Summers’ estate), an original Tommy Hilfiger surfboard on the wall next to original Andy Warhol art, and a sculpture of a colorful elephant that came from the Parade of Elephants in London.

Pigeon River Mountain Retreat sits in the middle of the Smoky & Blue Ridge Mountains, on the Continental Divide, in a valley. It’s only been open since 2022, after it took the original owner 7 years to build the roads!

If you’re coming without a big group and looking to stay on a budget, I’d recommend staying in Maggie Valley, full of cute inns on the river and plenty of renovated motor lodges. Motorcyclists love the area because of the Blue Ridge Parkway and other great roads for exploring on a motorcycle.

For a more luxe stay… Perched on the edge of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park, The Swag is that rare kind of mountain hideaway that feels both luxuriously secluded and wonderfully down-to-earth. With just 18 guest rooms (or “keys”) and a cozy spa, this Relais & Châteaux property invites you to slow down and breathe in the crisp air infused with evergreen. 

Guests can join a guided foraging-for-mixology session, blending mountain herbs into craft cocktails, or take advantage of the day pass ($50) for access to hiking trails, a hearty bag lunch, and even a keepsake hiking stick. The two-mile round-trip hike up to Hemphill Bald—one of the most scenic overlooks in the entire Smokies—rewards adventurers with sweeping views of the Blue Ridge Mountains, where the layers of blue melt into the horizon. Come July Fourth, it’s also one of the best perches to watch fireworks burst above the valleys below.

Appalachian Dining

Switchback on Cataloochee Ranch features a gorgeous dining room with large barn doors opening to a mountain view (bring a sweater!). Local trout creates a stand out menu offering and they source their beef on property. Start with their “bread service”, followed by the Sunburst Trout with sides of local mushrooms and seasonal vegetables. It was tough to pick just one dessert so we tried them all, deciding that the Bruleed Butterscotch Pudding and Chocolate Chess Pie were the winners!

Singletree Heritage Kitchen, where starters include the always-delicious soup of the day, blue crab fritters and one of my favorite starters, Cornmeal Crusted North Carolina Shrimp over a green tomato relish. The crispy mushroom strudel was a favorite featuring various local mushrooms, baked in a crispy phyllo dough. The mustard seed crusted Sunburst trout was also a fan favorite. Pair these dishes with a beautiful red blend from their extensive wine list.

Tea service at Crown & Thistle. Video Marika Flatt.

Tucked into the charming town of Waynesville, the Crown & Thistle Tea Room is a warm, whimsical escape where Southern hospitality meets English tradition. Opened in December 2024 by two sisters (and one helpful husband), this Haywood County gem pours more than 40 teas, including 2–3 seasonal blends that keep regulars coming back to see what’s new. Tea skeptics need not worry—Jet Black, their boldest brew, is the perfect pick for coffee lovers. 

The menu delights with creative bites like the charcuterie tea cup, ham & gouda puff, and irresistible sour cream and maple cinnamon scones. Add in themed events—sometimes accompanied by a live cello—and you have a tea experience that’s as comforting as it is cultured.

Rocky Face Tavern is a beautiful restaurant sitting among a golf course property and features a rotating seasonal menu, much like most of the restaurants in the area. Also, like most of the restaurants in the area, they feature pimento cheese– on a pimento cheese BLT. The other favorites included a barbecue chicken flatbread and their Tavern Burger.

Joey‘s Pancake House in Maggie Valley is a favorite of both locals and tourists. Next year, they will celebrate their 60th anniversary. They are obviously known for their specialty pancakes of which you can choose to order one, two, or the typical three. Their seasonal pancakes featured were pumpkin and piña colada! I enjoyed their #2 egg breakfast featuring two scrambled eggs, grits, sausage, and a biscuit– the perfect breakfast before a day of hiking. I loved that one of their breakfast offerings was a smoky mountain burrito featuring ingredients “hugged” in a grilled cheddar jalapeño wrap.

Beach Mountain Diner in Waynesville was the perfect spot for a hearty start to our day. It’s the only place I’ve ever seen fried fish ‘n grits on a menu! And I love that they feature a sunrise special only available from 7 to 8:30 AM. I was more than happy with my simple cheese and ham omelette and a hot coffee.

Our server at Southern Porch was entertaining. Video Marika Flatt.

Southern Porch held up to its name as we enjoyed our waiter and his southern drawl. We feasted on cheesy dips, Southern shrimp and grits, and fried green tomatoes, alongside local craft beers.

The Scotsman was an authentic Scottish pub, started by two young entrepreneurs who had visited Haywood County on their honeymoon and knew they wanted to be a part of the community. We loved the vibe of this spot, trying customary dishes like bangers and mash, chicken schnitzel, and shepherd’s pie. The pilsner on draft and the Harp lager were my favorite beers to accompany the scene. 

Blue Ghost Outpost in Waynesville is a great spot to grab and go with a latte and seasonal muffin (like the pumpkin chocolate chip I devoured). This little spot recently opened and locals are raving about it! 

Mountain Meandering

A few of the more popular spots on the 46 miles of Blue Ridge Parkway include the Devils Courthouse and Graveyard Fields, which we hiked in the rain to a beautiful 70-foot high waterfall. The hiking trails are fairly easy, with very little incline, and you can choose various lengths whether you go on the Lower Falls Trail or the Upper Falls Trail.

A black bear is leisurely crossing in the valley. Video Marika Flatt.

We took a drive through Cataloochee Valley (in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park) to see some historic spots, and we were lucky enough to see a few majestic elk, and even a small black bear crossing the street!

KT’s Orchard & Apiary

The only “you pick ‘em” orchard in the county, this is a fun place to go and pick your own delicious apples. KT and her husband dug every hole for every tree in 2008. They feature over 100 varieties of apples (like Red JonaPrince, Winter Banana, Chenago Strawberry), in addition to peaches, nectarines, berries, and even rhubarb. Guests are welcome to pick for $15 per bag, bring a picnic lunch and enjoy the property. The first apples are ready in early July and are available through early November. 

If you’re into history, visit the Shelton House in Waynesville. The home was created in the mid-1800s and has had only four owners, but only two who have lived there. Stephen Shelton was the original owner who passed it down to his second oldest son William Taylor Shelton, one of seven kids. An interesting fact is that William Taylor actually bought the home and the property from his parents but gave them life rights to live there. 

In 1977, it became the Museum of North Carolina Handicrafts featuring black walnut furniture harvested from the property, an original dining table from 1845, and an award-winning garden of dahlias outside. The property is only open for tours May through October but they feature a special candlelight tour in December by reservation only.

See more about Haywood County in my recent Studio 512 segment!

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Cover photo Marika Flatt

Marika Flatt, Outstanding Austin Communicator 2021, is the Travel Editor of Texas Lifestyle Magazine. She began her travel writing career in 2002, and can be seen as a contributor on TV shows across Texas, such as Great Day Houston, San Antonio Living, Spectrum News product showcase and Spectrum News Travel (airs statewide), Good Morning Texas, KVUE, Daytime (airs statewide), and Studio 512! Marika spent five years as the voice of the “Weekend Trip Tip” on NPR’s Texas Standard pre-Covid. Follow Marika on Instagram.