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I have always been fascinated by Japan’s history and culture — its deep reverence for tradition, delicate balance of nature and innovation, and respect for mindfulness.
Seeking Luxury, Serenity, and Iyashi
As a busy working mom, I often find myself in need of a retreat that offers not only an escape from the ordinary, but also a space for true rejuvenation. When I heard about iyashi, the Japanese concept of unplugging and connecting deeply to one’s surroundings, I was intrigued. I planned a trip to soak in Tokyo’s vibrant energy; experience Kyoto’s history, and visit a destination that’s new on travelers’ radars but well known to Japanese vacationers: Karuizawa. My week in Japan both thrilled me and allowed my mind and body to rest — a rare combination.
Tokyo: A Metropolis of Modern Luxury
Arriving in Tokyo feels like stepping into another world. The modern skyline rises above a city that is more than 400 years old. From the moment I checked in to The Prince Gallery Tokyo Kioicho, a Luxury Collection Hotel, I was struck by the contrast of Tokyo’s dazzling energy and the hotel’s quiet luxury. Floor-to-ceiling windows offer panoramic views of the city, stretching far beyond the horizon, but inside, the atmosphere is peaceful. I adored the hotel’s elegance, the curtains in my room that opened and closed at my beckoning, and the way I could choose lighting schemes to match my mood.
I began my mornings in Sky Gallery Lounge Levita, where cascading waterfalls and expansive city views offer a quiet respite before the day begins. I sipped green tea and watched Tokyo awake beneath me, taking in the rhythm of the city.
Tokyo’s culinary scene is a marvel. A dinner at Washoku Souten revealed the unique nature of Japanese flavors — delicate sushi, melt-in-your-mouth Wagyu beef, and the finest tempura, each dish telling a story of Japan’s culinary heritage. The balance of salt, sweet, and umami was so precise, it felt like a lesson in the art of eating.
Later, I visited The Bar illumiid, the perfect spot to unwind as night falls. Tokyo strikes me as a blend of contrasts — historic, yet modern; busy, yet tranquil.
Kyoto: Where Past Meets Present
From Tokyo, I took the bullet train to the astonishing city of Kyoto. Founded in 794 as Heian-kyo, Kyoto was once the imperial capital, and you can feel its deep roots in every stone-paved alley and ornate temple. I stayed at The Hotel Seiryu Kyoto Kiyomizu, nestled near the famous Kiyomizu-dera Temple, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The hotel, housed in a former elementary school, is a sumptuous architectural wonder, melding perfectly with its historic surroundings and making it an ideal base for exploring Kyoto.
I wandered through Gion, an ancient district where geishas once entertained. I visited the Fushimi Inari Shrine, with its thousands of vermilion torii gates that seem to stretch forever. The crunch of gravel underfoot as I walked through this sacred space calmed my busy mind, and for the first time in ages, I felt fully present in the moment.
One evening I enjoyed dinner at Benoit Kyoto, where French culinary techniques meet Kyoto’s traditional ingredients. A delicate dish of crispy duck, complemented by seasonal vegetables and light sauces, offered a taste of both Kyoto’s rich history and its modern culinary scene.
Karuizawa: A Serene Retreat in the Japanese Alps
After the excitement of Tokyo and the cultural richness of Kyoto, I made my way to Karuizawa, a peaceful town in the Japanese Alps that offers a perfect escape from the busy pace of everyday life. This mountain town, long favored by Japan’s elite, is the embodiment of tranquility. The cool mountain air, crisp and invigorating, is a stark contrast to the heat of Tokyo. I breathed in the scent of pine trees as I arrived at Karuizawa Prince Hotel West, an elegant property nestled within a forest.
Karuizawa is built around the concept of iyashi — healing comfort. This philosophy, deeply embedded in Japanese culture, focuses on restoring balance and wellness through nature and quiet. The hotel’s design embraces the natural beauty around it, with spacious rooms offering sweeping views of the mountains. When I stepped onto my balcony, I was greeted by the calming sight of mist drifting over the trees. The peacefulness allowed me to let go of stress and distraction.
One of the highlights of my stay was visiting an onsen, one of Japan’s renowned hot springs. The warm, mineral-rich water wrapped around me, soothing my muscles and calming my mind. The combination of the onsen’s healing powers and the natural beauty of Karuizawa — lush forests, alpine peaks, and the crisp mountain air — was glorious.
For a truly immersive experience, I participated in a soba-making class at the Soba Labo, where I learned the art of crafting buckwheat noodles by hand. Kneading the dough, rolling it out, and finally enjoying the dish I made myself brought a deep sense of satisfaction. The soba, served with a light broth and seasonal toppings, was fresh and comforting — a delicious reflection of the land.
Seasonal Experiences: Apple Picking & Whiskey Tasting
Fall in Japan is a magical time, and there’s no better way to embrace the season than by visiting Matsui Farm for apple picking. With over twenty varieties of apples, including the famous Fuji and Shinano Dolce, the farm offers a taste of autumn’s bounty. If you’re a fan of fine spirits, head over to Komoro Distillery to experience Japan’s world-renowned whiskey in a tasting session at the flagship Karuizawa distillery.
Cherry Trees in Bloom
Before heading home, I returned to Tokyo, where my final stop was amongst cherry blossoms at the Grand Prince Hotel Takanawa. The hotel is set against the serene backdrop of a Japanese garden, with koi ponds and manicured trees inviting quiet contemplation. I spent my final afternoon walking through the garden, listening to the sound of water trickling through the landscape. It was the perfect place to reflect on my journey, to simply be present. I was lucky enough to experience a traditional Japanese tea ceremony in the Sukiya-zukuri Style Tea House on property.
During cherry blossom season, The Prince Sakura Tower Tokyo transforms into a breathtaking sanctuary, offering a picturesque setting to witness Japan’s iconic sakura bloom. Located amidst a lush Japanese garden with over 200 cherry trees, the hotel offers guests a front-row seat to the stunning spectacle of pink and white blossoms in full bloom. I hope to return to experience the elegance of Tokyo’s cherry blossom season at this tranquil urban oasis, and to take part in a moon-gazing ceremony.
That evening, I dined at Teppanyaki Katsura, a restaurant that prepares fresh seafood and premium Wagyu beef right before your eyes. The smoky aroma of grilled meat filled the air, and each bite was a reminder of Japan’s commitment to perfection. As I savored the meal, I felt a sense of closure to my journey — a final celebration of the food, culture, and healing experiences of my Japanese sojourn.
Iyashi Forever
From Tokyo’s vibrant streets to Kyoto’s ancient temples and the peaceful retreats of Karuizawa, my time in Japan was a journey of renewal. Japan offers the perfect blend of relaxation and cultural immersion, from the soothing waters of an onsen, to cool mountain air, to the artistry of Japanese cuisine. This journey will remain with me, a reminder that even a busy working mom can find peace and healing when she takes time to travel to a place as beautiful and restorative as Japan.
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Cover photo courtesy Seibu Prince Hotels & Resorts
Amanda Eyre Ward is a New York Times bestselling novelist and travel writer. Amanda lives with her family in Austin, Texas…but loves to travel around the state and worldwide! Her new, bestselling novel — which is the story of a librarian in love and set in a British castle — is titled LOVERS AND LIARS.