When it comes to traveling to Spain, people often think of Madrid, Barcelona, or the Costa del Sol. But there’s another area of Spain that deserves some attention, and not just for the reasons you might think. I’m talking about Northern Spain, and two of its cities, Pamplona  (in the Region of Navarre) and San Sebastián (in the Basque Country). 

Part 1

Perhaps the mention of these two cities makes you think of bulls and Hemingway … but, there’s so much more to know about this area.  Northern Spain is actually a hotspot among Spaniards and Europeans, and it’s gaining traction with US travelers – it’s almost like a “best of” when it comes to Spanish destinations. 

My husband and I discovered this hotspot this past June when we explored Pamplona and San Sebastián. We’d heard the area is known for some of the best food and wine in the country (look up pintxos), and also has much to offer in terms of art, culture, and recreation. Plus, as a golf writer, I wanted to investigate the golf scene in this area that’s home to the 2023 Master’s Champ, Jon Rahm, a native of the Basque Country.

With that, let’s head to Northern Spain, starting with Pamplona. And watch for Part 2, where I’ll take you on a pintxos and culture tour in San Sebastián and introduce you to one of Spain’s greatest artists.

¡Vamos! (Let’s go!)

Getting to Pamplona

Whether you’re adding Spain to an itinerary with other stops, or making it your primary destination, you can get there via daily flights, trains, and buses, or rent a car. Many people opt for a car and use Pamplona as a base to explore other northern cities. My husband and I flew into Madrid and opted to get to Pamplona via train. We had purchased our tickets from Rail Europe before our trip and went directly from the airport in Madrid to the Atocha train station in Madrid’s city center. (Here’s a link to buy train tickets from Renfe while you’re in Europe.)

Getting around Pamplona is easy thanks to its city bus system, taxis and ubers; but you might not even need public transportation because Pamplona is very walkable, plus there are bikes to rent throughout the city. Also note that Pamplona is safe and easy to navigate, and even if you get off course, the locals are very friendly and will lend a hand. And, don’t forget to take advantage of Pamplona’s tourism resources before or during your trip for tips and city info.

Where to stay in Pamplona

Our hotel was in Old Town, an ideal location that attracts people for its stone-paved streets, medieval churches and palaces, shops, and of course – many bars and restaurants. And don’t worry – even with all of these sights to see, the area doesn’t feel frenetic or unsafe. But if you prefer a bit of distance from the action, try one of the quieter neighborhoods, or  head to a hotel or resort on the outskirts of the city, like one of these hotels suggested to visitors during the busy San Fermín Festival time.

We stayed at The Pamplona Catedral Hotel, a former monastery with clean and well-appointed rooms, a friendly staff, and one of the best breakfasts I’ve had in Europe. Plus, the hotel fitness center was great. 

Let’s Address the Bull in the Room – All About San Fermín and the Running of the Bulls 

While Pamplona is known for its annual Running of the Bulls and the Festival of San Fermín, those are just part of what makes Pamplona a must-visit city. But since we were there in the summer (close to festival time), you might be wondering, “Did you run with the bulls?” I mean we were in Pamplona, and like most people, whenever I heard about Pamplona, I’d think of Ernest Hemingway and The Running of the Bulls. 

It’s true that the Festival of San Fermín and its daily Running of the Bulls are an integral part of what makes Pamplona special. But to answer your question, no, we weren’t in Pamplona for the actual festival, but we were there in the weeks preceding it. And let me tell you … we could feel the excitement mounting everywhere. Fences were being added to the streets, store windows were being decorated, and bands and dancers were practicing in the streets. There was even an official “San Fermín Countdown” clock, leading up the celebration. 

Our local guide, Francisco Glaria Baines, gave us the insider scoop on the famous Running of the Bulls and the San Fermín Festival, which happen annually around July 7-14. During this time, the population of Pamplona swells from approximately 200,000 people to over a million.

When I asked Francisco where people stay during the festival week,  he laughed, pointed to the park we were walking through and said, “Everywhere.” According to Francisco, during SanFermines (that’s what locals call this week-long celebration), hotels and hostels are booked solid, homes of Pamplona residents are maxed out with guests, and even the public parks and squares are full of people trying to find a spot to sleep. 

But do you have to run with the bulls to be a part of the celebration? Nope. Francisco assured us that the Running of the Bulls Festival isn’t just for thrill seekers wanting to run with the bulls.  In fact, the number of people running is a fraction of those there for the festival – thousands of people gather along the route to watch the run that ends at the historic bullring in the Plaza de Toros de Pamplona.  And don’t worry, the area is  fenced in to prevent the bulls from running wild.

This daily run is only one part of the weeklong celebration in honor of the Catholic saint, San Fermín. There are also processions, music, dancing, pintxo bar hopping, and celebrations throughout the city. But don’t worry – even though the city is full and full of activity, there are many options for someone who isn’t there just for the parties.  There are many resources to help you plan your Sanfermines stay with comfortable lodging available both in Pamplona and outside the city.  

Beyond the Bulls … So Many Reasons to Visit Pamplona

Pamplona is the capital of the Navarre Region, an area with a history dating back to its founding by the Roman General Pompey in 75 BC. Today, it’s a modern city that remembers (and makes great efforts to preserve) its history as seen in its impeccably maintained historic buildings and monuments, charming streets, and beautiful parks that are found throughout the city. It’s a place where you can feel the pride of its citizens in every corner.

We felt that pride first hand as Francisco showed us his native city. It was easy to see why he’s a lead guide at Rick Steves Europe – he knows Pamplona like the back of his hand, adding flavor to his tours with fun stories and real life commentary. One of our stops was at the Cathedral of Santa María la Real of Pamplona, a magnificent example of 14th and 15th century Gothic architecture, and also home to ancient relics, art, statues, and the Museum of the Pamplona Cathedral. This museum feels less like a museum and more like an immersive sensory experience through the ages, offering the history of the cathedral while simultaneously covering the history of the world. 

On our tour with Francisco, we found history in every corner of Pamplona  including its cathedrals, museums, and countless historic buildings with amazing views. This included the Parroquia San Lorenzo, revered for its chapel dedicated to the city’s patron saint and once an important part of Pamplona’s defensive system as well as other historic buildings such as Pamplona’s City Hall, located in Old Town.  

Our tour continued along Calle Estafeta, a street lined with shops, restaurants, and bars, and the longest and most popular street in Old Town along the route for the Running of the Bulls.  While on that topic, be sure to visit the Plaza de Toros de Pamplona (the bull ring) and don’t miss the Monumento al Encierro – a full-scale bronze sculpture that pays tribute to the running of the bulls.

Pamplona & the Camino de Santiago

Speaking of history, Pamplona is located along one of the routes of the centuries old Camino de Santiago, the historical pilgrimage found throughout Spain that leads to Santiago de Compostela. This explains why you might see people sporting backpacks with a white scallop shell attached. These people are “pilgrims” – the name for those walking the Camino de Santiago.  Pilgrims may pass through Pamplona, or stay in one of the albergues (inexpensive hostels for pilgrims) found throughout the city.  If the Camino intrigues you, strike up a conversation with a pilgrim or a local. Or, visit Pamplona’s new Pilgrim Welcome and Interpretation Centre for the Way of Saint James to learn all about the Camino.

One person who knows a lot about the Camino was our second tour guide, José Mari Ardanaz, founder of El Camino People. Jose took us on an off-the-beaten-path Pintxo Tour and gave us the low-down on all things Pamplona. 

Attention Foodies … Get Ready For Heaven on Earth in Pamplona

Jose shared that in addition to its rich history, festivals, art & culture, beautiful green spaces, and location along the Camino, Pamplona is known for its pintxos. 

Pintxos are bite-sized snacks offered at bars and restaurants, often eaten between meals. You might be wondering, aren’t those called tapas?  Great question – pintxos and tapas are often mixed up. Pintxos are served on a toothpick or skewer and are more popular in northern Spain, while tapas are served throughout Spain and served on a plate in slightly larger portions to be shared. Both can be enjoyed with a caña (a small glass of tap beer) or glass of wine.

Pintxos are more than a snack, they’re a pastime. It’s not uncommon for locals (and tourists) to hop from bar to bar, trying pintxos at each one. In fact, pintxos are so embedded in Pamplona’s culture that there’s an annual “pintxo week” – either in March or April, depending on when Semana Santa (Holy Week) falls. During this week, there’s a friendly competition among the bars that inspires some of the most innovative pintxos you’ve ever seen. 

So, let’s get some pintxos, or if you were a local you might say, “vamos de pintxos.”  A great starting point is Old Town, where you’ll find many pintxo bars, restaurants, and outdoor cafes, plus Plaza Castillo, the town square often called “Pamplona’s Living Room.” It’s the spot everyone comes to hang out, and also where Hemingway spent many hours. You can retrace his steps with a stop at Café Iruña (the fictional hang out for the characters in “The Sun Also Rises”) and while there go downstairs to the lesser known “bar within a bar” speakeasy, “El Rincón de Hemingway.” Just across the street is Hemingway’s favorite hotel, the Gran Hotel La Perla.

After you’ve had your fill of Hemingway, head back to the streets of Old Town. Some streets not to miss are Calle Estafeta, Calle San Nicolas, and Calle San Gregarerio where you’ll find many pintxo bars to visit. You might even want to try this  popular pintxo route.

After a couple of guided tours, some of our favorite pintxo bars included:

Baserriberi – this Michelin Star pintxo bar is owned by Chef Inaki Andradas, who’s won many local pintxo contests in Pamplona and even made an appearance at last year’s Oscars for catering on a movie set. We tried the BullDog (exactly what it sounds like) and the “boom vieja” that’s delivered in the most unique way (it looks like a smoke bomb) and was absolutely delicious.

Bar Museo – Stop here if you like eggs – Bar Museo is famous for their pintxo of egg with bechamel and they’ve already sold more than 1.5 million eggs. 

Casa Otano – a charming option that prides itself in using fresh and local ingredients. If you have a sweet tooth, try their Basque cheesecake. 

Gaucho – This Michelin Restaurant is known for pintxos that are as beautiful and creative as they are delicious, and are made using only the highest quality products. Try innovative dishes like cojonudo (chorizo and quail egg), a huevo trufado (truffled egg) or Lasaña Gaucho (Gaucho lasagna).

Speaking of Gaucho, two of its former employees, Margo and Amaya, started their own restaurant called Amatxo, located at the foot of the Cathedral of Pamplona. If the restaurant’s motto “There’s always room at the table” doesn’t draw you in, their philosophy for serving great food should. Co-owner Amaya told me,  “We want our patrons to feel like they’re eating in their mother’s home. We want everyone at Amaxto to feel loved and welcome, enjoying the very best food.” Their food delivers – the chefs use only seasonal and quality products to cook food that people truly love. 

From Pintxos to Recreation… Activities Galore in Pamplona

After all of these pintxos, you might want to move around a bit which is easy because of Pamplona’s walkable streets and many trails and parks. In addition, Pamplona is great if you love running, cycling, hiking, kayaking & canoeing, or just being in nature. Plus, great news for golfers: Pamplona is close to several beautiful golf courses. My husband and I played a round at the Club de Golf Castillo de Gorraiz, also home to a hotel & spa. After our round, we enjoyed a glass of wine with some local golfers who told us not to miss the many wineries in the surrounding Region of Navarre. Be sure to add wine tours to your list of Pamplona activities, because as one of my new golfing pals correctly stated, “Our wine is… beautiful.”  

In fact, pretty much everything and everyone is beautiful in Pamplona.  Whether you come for the bulls, pintxos, Camino, or all of the above, you’ll leave with a few new friends.

Be on the lookout for Part 2 of this Northern Spain series, for more pintxos, culture, and recreation as we head further north to San Sebastián.

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Cover photo Abbey Algiers

Abbey Algiers is a freelance writer specializing in golf, travel, Spain, and lifestyle. She writes regularly for the LPGA Women’s Network and has written for GoNOMAD.com, including an account of her trip along the Camino de Santiago – one of GoNOMAD’s “Best of 2022.” Find more about Abbey on her website or in her weekly lifestyle newsletter.