“‘Finding yourself’ is actually returning to yourself. An unlearning, an excavation, a remembering who you were before the world got its hands on you.” ~Emily McDowell

A Hawaiian island less known, Lanai used to be covered in pineapple plantations until the last harvest in 1992 when labor became too expensive. These days, with a population around 3,500, tourism and construction are the main industries on an island owned by tech billionaire Larry Ellison (Oracle). His “ambition” has transformed the small island into a wellness crown jewel. 

In over two decades of travel writing, visiting some of the most attractive places around the world, Sensei Lanai, a Four Seasons Resort is the most beautiful and relaxing property I’ve encountered. A refuge for the soul. With expertly designed botanical gardens featuring the most vibrant colors one can plant, the property feels less like a resort, and more like a billionaire’s personal estate with water features and sculptures dotted throughout the grounds.

What was formerly a dark paneled hunting lodge was transformed to Sensei in 2019 with Ellison (and his team) at the helm. Here, you’ll find aspects of other upscale wellness retreats, but you’ll also see how they have blended in a true vacation resort vibe. For instance, the Garden Bar is open all day and evening, with its doors open to the garden inviting in the perfectly tempered 60-70 degree fresh air, versus other wellness resorts’ anti-alcohol persuasion.

At Sensei, guests can take advantage of as many wellness classes as they choose or simply rest and rejuvenate among the beautiful botanical gardens, in the gorgeous onsen tubs landscaped into the gardens, with poolside service and other amenities, such as the cozy library primed for devouring a great book in front of the fireplace.

Through their Rest and Recovery program, retreatants typically stay five nights to pack in the one-on-one sessions with “guides”, fitness classes, and plenty of time to just relax. The sessions include intention setting, sleep health, sensory eating, movement, and mindfulness (essentially meditation), each with an individual guide who specializes in the topic — some of the best in the country. With an extremely gentle touch, the guide artfully weaves in intentional learning, reflecting at the end on what you hope to take home to foster in your new healthier lifestyle. The overarching point of spending time at Sensei is to learn how to maximize overall wellness, leading to more enjoyable longevity. These tools are not to be tapped into for simply a moment in time, but instead for a lifetime.

Move, Nourish, Rest

Refugees, as I call them, from our productive way of life, should take advantage of classes such as aerial yoga, functional fascia, and the Koloiki Ridge hike in the mornings. But leave time in between classes as I quickly noticed that most classes run overtime and you really want to take advantage of the natural flow and rhythm, not watching a clock to run off to the next session. You’ll realize that you might get more out of the natural conversation with guides and practitioners just by letting engagement flow.

A few of the most impressive things about soaking up Sensei, that I did not realize before I arrived, were the most pleasant and relaxing of my stay. First, the botanical gardens that cover the entire property are absolutely breathtaking. The trail that weaves around the outer edge of the lake is great to just take a relaxing stroll, listen to the birds and look at the myriad of colors surrounding you in the gardens. Take time to sit on one of the docks that overlooks the lake in the Adirondack chairs, and either read, maybe have a conversation with a loved one, or just reflect on your time there.

The Onsen garden is truly unique and spectacular! Settled in the corner of the property among the luscious landscaping and waterfalls are eight individual hot tubs meant to be privately used for whatever length of time you choose. Grab a towel at the entrance, find your perfect pool, switch the sign from vacant to occupied, and let the recovery soak in.

The outdoor pool is magnificent, surrounded with coves of chaise lounges tucked into the gardens, where one can simply read poolside or be waited on by the outstanding poolside staff (I highly recommend taking lunch there… mini shrimp tacos, yes please!) Of course, there are hot tubs sprinkled among the pool area as well.

Other rejuvenating spots to just sit and enjoy are around the fire pits on the back patio of the main hall, your own patio outside your guest room, or even in the rocking chairs, perfectly lined up on the front porch of the main lobby.

A wide variance of guests range from honeymooners to senior citizens in search of wellness to solo seekers of wellness coming to recover from busy lifestyles.

Food as Fuel

Nobu is the main restaurant on property. No reservation is needed to walk in to enjoy breakfast or lunch but you will make a reservation for dinner service. A healthy breakfast to start your day might include a personalized omelet, whole wheat avocado toast, or just a heaping bowl of fresh tropical fruit. Dining outside next to the koi pond is a real treat, weather permitting.

Dinner is a multi-course experience, starting with a fresh salad or creamy soup, followed by a wide range of entrées to include fresh fish, grilled chicken breast, or pork chop with sides of grains, like quinoa or wild rice, and fresh sautéed vegetables. Unlike other wellness resorts, you are free to enjoy cocktails, local Hawaiian beers, or wines throughout the day and evening, whether it be there at Nobu, at the Garden Bar or poolside.

Hale Heaven

Two spa treatments are included in the R&R program. Yet another original feature of Sensei Lanai is that there is no centralized spa. Instead, there are 10 individual hale (pronounced hah-lee) huts that line the back of the property. You will go to a specific hale for your spa treatment where you will find one of the most luxurious settings, aptly prepared for your ultimate relaxation. Amid dimmed lighting, remove your shoes and walk into a very special space. The main room features a massage/facial bed and a bar of oils for you to choose from; the bathroom features a dry sauna and a shower equipped with a steam room; and the outdoor garden will feature a cool plunge pool next to your own heated onsen tub and even an outdoor rainforest shower.

After your massage or facial, you’ll be granted extra time to enjoy your hale, truly one of the best parts of your visit. They are even offering special packages where you can rent out a hale on a Thursday, Friday or Saturday evening for a set amount of time to create your own personalized spa experience.

Offered several mornings a week, take advantage of the 5-mile guided hike up to the Koloiki Ridge. At the top, you will have a vantage point that includes views of both Maui and Molokai.

Your guest room is absolutely the ultimate in coziness, featuring a plush Four Seasons bed, plenty of space to spread out with a sitting area, oversized bathroom, coffee bar, and electric blackout shades to ensure some of the best sleep one can obtain. Don’t be surprised if you fall fast asleep by 8:30 p.m. or shortly after during your stay. The entire experience is designed to downshift your nervous system throughout the day, helping one to gently fall into substantial slumber at night.

Trip Tips

• A shuttle runs at the bottom of every hour from Sensei to the sister Four Seasons property in the Southern part of Lanai. Here, you can stroll down to the beach (which sits in a bay) and have dinner at One Forty, a lovely Hawaiian steakhouse. I highly recommend the burrata which is made with fresh tomatoes from Sensei Farms on the island, the plentiful mushroom pappardelle, and the purple sweet potato au gratin (a variety not found in many places and said to be great for longevity!)  
• To hear local live music (except Sunday & Monday), have the shuttle drop you off in town at Lanai City Bar & Grill where you can enjoy happy hour from 4-6 p.m. with their Smash Burger or calamari.
• There’s a cat sanctuary on the island where you can go and play with the felines. 
• A local told me that Blue Ginger has the best fried rice in all of Hawaii. 

“Travel has always been perceived as a break from our day-to-day reality. Now, thanks to a toxic build up of screen time, travel is a re-engagement with reality, a pathway to well-being and personal growth.” –  from a Travel & Leisure Magazine article about Sensei.

In this turbocharged world we live in as Americans, running the rat race of life and bombarded by emotional warfare, a visit to Sensei Lanai is perfectly packaged preventative medicine for our bodies, minds, and spirits. With it being quite a long journey from Texas attached to a sparkling price tag (nearly $1,800/night, not to include F&B), most will not make this an annual visit as would be the perfect gift to ourselves. However, treat yourself to your first stay and it will be hard to deny yourself repeat visits.

Aloha, Sensei Lanai. Mahalo for the rest.

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Cover Photo Robb Aaron Gordon; Courtesy Sensei Lanai, A Four Seasons Resort

Marika Flatt, Outstanding Austin Communicator 2021, is the Travel Editor of Texas Lifestyle Magazine. She began her travel writing career in 2002, and can be seen as a contributor on TV shows across Texas, such as KVUE, Daytime (FOX), San Antonio Living, Good Morning Texas, and KXAN!  Marika spent five years as the voice of the “Weekend Trip Tip” on NPR’s Texas Standard pre-Covid. She adores taking a respite from 12-hour work days and wellness is her jam.