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Lifelong friends trade December chaos for Spanish moss, river views, and restorative luxury in South Carolina’s Lowcountry.
THE HOLIDAY WHIRLWIND
For my best friend Beth and me, December was a whirlwind of gift wrapping, full-time jobs, and endless to-do lists that somehow never got completely checked off. After the holiday mayhem subsided, we decided to take ourselves on “mom-cation” to Montage Palmetto Bluff in South Carolina’s Lowcountry.
On nearby Hilton Head Island, Beth and I had met as babies, as our grandparents had lived next-door to each other. We’d always loved books, and as girls, we founded a book club called “DBC”—named after Beth’s childhood dog, Dusty. Although we live in different cities, we text “DBC” recommendations weekly, and treasure spending time together when I visit my parents in Savannah, Georgia.
For our “mom-cation,” Beth and I drove to Montage Palmetto Bluff, a resort situated on 20,000 acres along the May River, between Hilton Head and Savannah. As we drove the stunning road toward the resort, we marveled at the Spanish moss draped from centuries-old oak trees. The air smelled like salt marsh and pine.
We’d made it.

OUR LOWCOUNTRY COTTAGE
Our two-bedroom, waterfront cottage embodied classic Lowcountry style—that perfect blend of Southern tradition and modern comfort that makes you want to move in for good. Antique heart pine floors glowed warmly beneath vaulted ceilings, while the famous “haint blue” ceiling on our screened porch was designed, according to local tradition, to keep evil spirits away. (It worked—no evil spirits, just a stack of books and river views.)
The color palette took cues from the surrounding marshland—soft, earthy tones that reminded me of misty mornings and sun-bleached docks. Our marble bathrooms felt like private spas, and the screened porch became our favorite spot for morning coffee, watching herons stalk through the marsh grass. Everything about the space encouraged that seamless indoor-outdoor living the Lowcountry does so well.
DISCOVERING LOWCOUNTRY WILDLIFE WITH A NATURALIST
Our first morning began with a “Walk & Talk in Nature” led by resident naturalist. We ambled along maritime forest trails, pointing out bird species I’d never noticed before. We visited Bird Island and climbed up to the property’s freestanding treehouses—architectural gems designed by a father-son team who understood how to build structures that feel like they grew naturally from the trees.

EXPLORING THE INLAND WATERWAYS BY BOAT
Later that morning, we boarded a boat at the Octagon dock for an Inland Waterway Ecotour. As we navigated the 32 miles of waterfront that wind through the property, I kept an eye out for alligators.
We glided past marshland where herons stood motionless, watching for fish. The naturalist pointed out osprey nests and explained the delicate ecosystem of the Lowcountry salt marshes. The boat moved slowly, giving us time to absorb the landscape.

GOLF, PADDLE SPORTS, AND GETTING AROUND THE BLUFF
After lunch at Octagon—where I had a stellar Seafood Cobb Salad with delicate lump crab—we visited the resort’s canine ambassadors—Labrador Retrievers that serve as friendly greeters throughout the property. Like other Montage locations, Palmetto Bluff has these four-legged hosts, though here they chose Labs as a nod to the Lowcountry’s hunting heritage.

We didn’t golf this trip but we visited the community courses. I was fascinated to learn about the Crossroads golf course designed by King-Collins Course Design. The course can be played two different ways—nine holes one direction, nine holes the other – giving golfers flexibility based on their schedule.
For water enthusiasts, OPB paddle sport boats are available on property for exploring the waterways at your own pace. And art lovers should visit Flow Gallery, which features an artist in residence program showcasing Lowcountry-inspired work.
The property continues expanding with the new Anson Village development underway promising even more residential options within this remarkable community.

LOWCOUNTRY RELAXATION MASSAGES AT SPA MONTAGE
Our 3:45 pm massage appointments were perfectly timed. After hours of walking, biking, and boat tours, my muscles were ready for the “Lowcountry Relaxation Massage.”
The spa itself is stunning—floor-to-ceiling windows overlook the lagoon, and the relaxation room feels like a peaceful library. My massage therapist, Kelly Housaman, was extraordinary. She customized the pressure perfectly, working out travel tension I didn’t know I was carrying, and somehow knew exactly which muscles needed the most attention.
Afterward, Beth and I lounged in the relaxation room, sipping cucumber water and reading side-by-side as we’d done since we’d learned to read. It was heaven.
DINNER AT RIVER HOUSE: AN UNFORGETTABLE EVENING
River House requires business casual attire (jackets recommended for men), and the dress code sets the tone. This is serious Southern fine dining. Our server, Noel Thorpe, guided us through the menu with expertise and genuine warmth that made the entire evening feel special.
We started with an amuse bouche, and as I pulled out my phone to snap a photo of the lovely concoction, Beth tried to hide from my camera…to no avail. We split the chef’s crab cake—$32 and worth every penny. Meyer lemon aioli, garlic chips, and dill blooms created the perfect accompaniment to what might be the best crab cake I’ve ever tasted. I also ordered the diver scallops with cauliflower purée, toasted almond, chili oil, and petite sorrel.
For sides, we shared the chef’s garden select vegetables and somehow convinced ourselves we had room for dessert.

A PASTRY CHEF’S MASTERPIECE
The Palmetto Bluff Loblolly Pine dessert stopped our conversation mid-sentence when it arrived. The pastry chef’s creation featured loblolly pine cremeux, cassis, quinoa crisp, and blood orange—a dessert that tasted like the Lowcountry forest translated into something sweet and delicate.
The loblolly pine is South Carolina’s state tree, and somehow the pastry team captured its essence in a dessert. Every element worked together—the pine cremeux wasn’t overpowering, the cassis added tart brightness, and the quinoa crisp provided texture. It was simultaneously familiar and completely unexpected.

DISCOVERING HUSH, THE SECRET SPEAKEASY
After dinner, Noel told us about a secret entrance below River House. We found ourselves descending into Hush, an intimate speakeasy that pays homage to the storied past of Southern speakeasy culture. The cozy, dimly lit space—open Wednesdays through Saturdays from 6 pm to midnight—felt like stepping into another era.
Staffed with expert mixologists, Hush offers carefully curated bourbon, rye, and premium spirits. Beth and I settled into leather chairs with craft cocktails, savoring the kind of unhurried conversation that only happens in spaces designed for lingering. It was the perfect cap to an exceptional evening.

LUNCH AT BUFFALO’S IN WILSON VILLAGE
The next morning, Beth headed home, but my mother, Mary-Anne Westley, and stepfather, Peter Westley, joined me for lunch at Buffalo’s in Wilson Village. The casual restaurant sits along the May River, where we watched boats glide past from the open-air patio. The bright, inviting atmosphere felt perfect for a relaxed family meal.
I ordered the Coachella Salad—artisan greens with apple vinaigrette, roasted chicken, goat cheese, avocado, pink lady apples, and pumpkin seeds. My mother chose the Classic Tuna Melt on griddled rye with pimento cheese, while Peter ordered the Salmon BLT on rye bread with honey glaze, bacon, lettuce, tomato, and dill aioli. My mother couldn’t resist a slice of chocolate cake for dessert, declaring it absolutely divine.

Photo courtesy Amanda Eyre Ward.
THE POWER OF A MOM BREAK
Beth and I returned home to our families recharged,
Montage Palmetto Bluff gave us that gift.
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Cover Photo courtesy Montage Palmetto Bluff.
Amanda Eyre Ward is a New York Times bestselling novelist, screenwriter, and travel writer whose work appears in Travel + Leisure, Bon Appétit, and Food & Wine. She lives with her family in Austin, Texas. Her newest novel, ARRIVALS AND DEPARTURES, will be published by Random House in June 2026.








