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Brad Paisley waxes nostalgic about South Padre Island at the end of a duet with Carrie Underwood. College kids flock here for spring break. Families return annually for summer vacation. Kiteboarders make pilgrimages from across the globe to experience the island’s legendary winds.
“SPI,” as many of us who hail outside of Texas refer to this tiny island, offers non-stop exhilaration in a laid-back environment. There’s not a lick of pretentiousness on this warm, welcoming seaside hamlet and the locals are among some of the kindest people you’ll ever meet.
I originally started coming here every spring and fall with my life partner who’s a professional kiteboarder. He’d rent this beautiful, big beach house and host clinics for his students. Many of them would bring along their significant others who, like me, weren’t kiteboarders. I was in charge of making sure they had fun, too.
Those trips were magic. The thrill of watching my partner’s students learning how to kite and hearing the stories of their adventures after a long day out on the water. The karaoke nights and mouthwatering barbecues, the exquisite restaurants and all the laughter and camaraderie.
When we broke up, I was hesitant to go back, afraid that the memories would be torture. A dear friend who lives on South Padre and owns the local bookstore offered to help me reclaim the island on my own terms. I grew up during the summers in Santorini, Greece, back when it was still rugged and unspoiled by over-tourism. I searched for decades for another small island that would give me that same sense of home. Who would have believed that it was right in front of me all along? It took a broken heart to open my eyes.
Allow me to introduce you to that South Padre, the one that literally saved me. If you’re a woman over fifty contemplating visiting South Padre alone, there’s so much more to this place than just fun and sun. Though you’ll find a delightful abundance of both, the island is also bliss for anyone wanting some meaningful, restorative me-time without feeling isolated.
In the couple of years that I’ve been going to South Padre solo, I’ve gotten to know it in ways I never could have imagined. The island has become my sanctuary. I always feel hugged here and I want you to have that, too. Whether you seek healing, escape or just need a break, here are some of my favorite things about South Padre for the mature female traveler on a sojourn of self.
I hope you’ll find this deeply personal compilation of places, people and experiences helpful, and that by the time you’re done reading this article, you’re already checking your calendar to see if you can sneak away.
The Palms Resort and Café
The Palms is one of the island’s best kept secrets and my absolute go-to place to stay whenever I visit the island. Originally established in the early ‘70s as a small, beachfront motor lodge, its low-key retro vibe draws a wealth of interesting patrons, many of whom are regulars. The rooms are all mini suites with kitchenettes and feature thoughtful amenities from free wi-fi, flat screen TVs and umbrella and chair service on the beach (for a modest fee) to a heated pool and lobby store. These people really care about their guests. During a recent stay, I came down with a cold, and the manager went out of her way to get me everything I needed. She even went to their storage unit and brought me an air purifier. It’s just how they are.
Their restaurant, The Palms Café, is right on the beach and has that balmy, island feel. I especially enjoy dining there in the off season on cool, rainy nights with a good book or my journal. Absolute heaven!
The resort’s proprietors, Scott and Lori Morrison, are delightful. Lori vacationed on South Padre growing up, and whenever she and Scott visited the island, The Palms Café was always their first stop. When they saw the inn was for sale, Scott, who’d recently retired from a successful law career, and Lori, his middle school sweetheart, couldn’t resist. “We did it for the fun of it and the love of it,” says Scott. You can feel that love in every detail of this wonderful seaside oasis.
Karma Coffee and Books
The owner Will Everett (the dear friend I mentioned earlier) and his business partner Roin Khurami, have created one of the most popular local hubs, not just for book lovers but anyone needing a quiet spot to work, read or simply chill. Will is the book-whisperer. He doesn’t just stock the store’s shelves with the latest titles, he curates reading experiences. There are days when I’ve gone into the café thinking I’d just grab a quick bite and a coffee and ended up staying for hours book shopping, chatting with patrons and just soaking in the friendly, vibrant atmosphere. It’s also a great place to meet people if you’re feeling social.
Cafe Karma
This is Will and Roin’s other coffee shop, a few miles north, and the first one they opened on the island. Here, you’ll find their pastry chef JoJo whipping up irresistible and delectable treats. My favorites are the fruit kolaches and the peanut butter cups. If you like quiche, swing by on a Tuesday for Will’s homemade gluten-free version, with thinly sliced sweet potato in lieu of crust. It’s to die for!
ArtSea Gallery and Goods
If you’re at Cafe Karma, you have to check out ArtSea, the locally owned shop next door. It’s like stepping inside the loveliest daydream you’ve ever had. Wendy Hauschildt, the chief craftsperson, is a gifted artist whose work has inspired quite a following. She’s best known for her whimsical animal portraits that make you wonder if the raccoon rummaging through your garbage at night might not be planning a coup. She, her sister Jodi and her mom Carolyn will greet you like family. This is one of those shops that each time you go, you discover some finely crafted treasure that you didn’t notice before. You’ll often see Carolyn sitting in the back room knitting a blanket to add to the store’s available wares.
My favorite thing about ArtSea is the section of colorfully displayed writing and art supplies. Sometimes, I’ll swing by the shop for girl talk and then grab what I need to nourish my creative spirit. There have been days, especially when I was still adjusting to being on the island alone, that I’d sit for hours journaling or sketching by the water. It gave me back my calm and clarity.
Charmed
Right around the corner from ArtSea is Charmed, an eclectic boutique for the body, mind and spirit. Whenever I’m on the island, I always make it a point to stop in for candles and essential oils and browse around. It’s like therapy. The owner, Abbie Mahan, exudes warm, healing energy and if you’re interested in guided meditations, cacao ceremonies, sound baths or other spiritually focused activities, she’ll hook you up. You can even get a henna at Charmed or a palm reading. I buy all my loose teas from Abbie. She has varieties that you can’t get anywhere else. She carries some really interesting clothing, too.
Daisy’s Deli
Next to Charmed is one of the best delis anywhere, Daisy’s Deli. Another family-owned business, the food here is made from scratch daily. This is next-level, spa-quality clean eating with ingredients so fresh that every bite is a testimonial to self-care. The deli is owned by Meghan Hepburn and John Wilson, with Meghan’s mom Robin Norris providing culinary support in the kitchen.
Tofu is my happy food, and until Daisy’s opened it was almost impossible to find on island. Not only do they have rotating tofu specials, but they offer a diverse range of vegan dishes and a pantry loaded with Robin’s homemade jams and pickled string beans. I always head over to Daisy’s as soon as I arrive and stock up on all my favorites. It’s my ritual now. Though this place is a haven for vegans, if you’re a meat lover, they’ve got you covered, too, with some of the tastiest sandwiches on the planet. Everything is delicious and you’re never alone at Daisy’s.
F&B
Here you feel beautiful and alive no matter what kind of day you’re having. Owners Walter and Brandi Greenwood—he’s the chef and she manages the restaurant—are both culinary pedigrees.
Walter was a sous chef at The Beverly Hills Hotel and the Wynn, Las Vegas where he trained under James Beard award-winner Paul Bartolotta. Brandi was mentored by Wolfgang Puck. Despite such prestigious roots, these are not aloof restauranteurs. It’s the kind of place where she’ll wheel a salt-encrusted red snapper to your table and filet it for you personally while sharing the story of how she and Walter met, and he’ll come over after your meal to thank you for dining with them.
Walter and Brandi are driven by more than a work ethic. This humble, genuine couple are in it for the love of giving foodies, whether they’re dressed to the nines or in flip flops and shorts, an unforgettable experience. One of the things I respect most about them is how they remember you no matter how much time has passed and are always so happy to see you.
The décor reminds me of the Greek islands, with large white columns and high ceilings. The tables are generously spaced and when you walk into the dining room, you feel yourself exhaling. The bar here is terrific, too. If you’re in a social mood, there’s always someone interesting to talk to and the bartenders are gracious and engaging. Not up for conversation? No problem. You can enjoy something to eat, a drink or a glass of wine in peace here.
Honorable Mentions
Here is my list of honorable mentions:
Some of the best local seafood on the island. Fantastic bar. Fabulous views of the harbor. Wonderful service. If you go to the bar, ask for Lori. She makes a great Aperol Spritzer.
Brand new location with all new equipment. Rivals the big chains in every way. You can purchase a pass by the day, week or month.
Best peel & eat shrimp anywhere. Period. Frozen drinks worth every penny. Piña Coladas that never disappoint.
– Yummies
Best local diner on South Padre.
– Viva
Lively outdoor dining on the bayside. Same family that owns Yummies. Perfect for watching the sunset over a drink or dinner.
No need to cross the bridge for groceries. This locally owned market has everything you need.
The locals love this place. You can hang at the bar or shoot some pool in the back, and their Reuben sandwich melts in your mouth.
An old, historic marina barn that’s been transformed into a state-of-the-art cultural epicenter where local artists create and exhibit their work. They also offer intimate concerts, workshops and classes and community events. It’s one of the coolest places to experience on South Padre.
The Beaches
For restaurants and beach bars, hit the beach access points south of the convention center. If you want to walk for miles without seeing another human being, no condos or hotels, no Airbnb’s, just endless stretches of pristine shoreline, drive north on Padre Blvd., past the Marriott and keep going for about a half mile. All the public access locations on the island have free parking.
The Flats, miles of flat, shallow water, are on the bayside. If you’re adventuresome and don’t mind a little mud, bring a chair and enjoy the tranquility or rent a kayak or SUP.
Final Thoughts
I leave you with what I cherish most about South Padre, especially traveling solo—its community of passionate, devoted animal lovers. If you find an injured critter, whether it’s a stray dog or cat, a wounded bird or a sea turtle, there are people here who will drop everything to help. Friends of the Animals and Sea Turtle Inc, are well-run non-profits and you can always reach someone. I’ve personally experienced how amazing they are and don’t know what I would have done without both of these resources. If you love bird watching, visit the South Padre Island Bird and Nature Center. They even have a baby alligator sanctuary there!
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Cover Photo Jodee Blanco
Jodee Blanco is the author of two New York Times bestsellers, “Please Stop Laughing at Me,” the first memoir by a survivor of school bullying and “Both of Us” which she co-wrote with Ryan O’Neal about his love affair with Farrah Fawcett. She lives in Chicago.
