A cruise aboard Victory II reveals the Great Lakes as an unexpected adventure filled with rugged scenery, memorable excursions, gourmet dining, and plenty of luxury—without the long-haul flight or jet lag. 

I zipped myself into a red survival suit, donned a pair of borrowed goggles, and felt very far from Texas. I was chilly and exhilarated, a welcome change from my usual summer state, which was overheated and lethargic. At a dock in Thunder Bay, Ontario, a Zodiac boat was ready to take me skimming across Lake Superior toward a land formation called the Sleeping Giant. As our guide revved the engine and my heartbeat quickened, I thought, “This is not what I thought a cruise on America’s Great Lakes would be!”

What had I envisioned? Maybe slow sunsets and relaxing days…time to do a crossword puzzle, watch nice scenery, eat lazy gourmet dinners and the famous Murdick’s Fudge. And my trip aboard the Victory II did offer all of these things. But what surprised me was whitecaps, wild coastline, wildlife, and thrilling excursions. Ever since my Victory Cruise Lines adventure, I’ve been telling everyone that their next fabulous trip should start a few hours from home.

Skip the Long Flight: Why a Great Lakes Cruise Wins

It seems almost too easy — a quick flight to Chicago, a stroll onto a beautiful ship. There is no jet lag to sleep off and no scramble to convert currency. But don’t let the ease fool you. The Great Lakes are an epic destination. In June, I sailed fourteen nights round-trip from Chicago aboard Victory II, a small luxury ship operated by Victory Cruise Lines. We crossed two lakes, called on three states and one Canadian province, and I’m already planning my next Victory itinerary.

Victory carries fewer than 200 guests. That size opens up harbors the big ships cannot enter. It also means the crew learns your name by your first evening aboard. Fares include unlimited beverages, Wi-Fi, nightly entertainment, one shore excursion in every port, and a pre-cruise hotel night with breakfast.

Where to Stay in Chicago Before Your Cruise

Victory includes a pre-cruise hotel night, and I built an extra day around mine at the Arlo Chicago to savor the chic hotel and Chicago deep-dish pizza.

In the morning, I boarded the Victory II at Navy Pier. Sailing out past the Chicago skyline at six in the evening is a delight. Every guest was on deck with a drink in hand.

Life Aboard Victory II

Victory II was built for the Great Lakes. I loved the décor: the interior filled with traditional wood-paneling, brass fittings, and plush carpet. The heart of the ship is the Compass Lounge, a bright, grand-piano-equipped room wrapped in panoramic windows. Enrichment talks fill it by day, with coffee and cookies and afternoon movies with fresh popcorn. At night it turns into cocktails, live music, and old-fashioned sing-alongs.

Just forward sits The Tavern, a snug English-style bar with warm woods, upholstered stools, and a shelf of board games. The Deck 4 promenade is where everyone gathers for scenery and lock transits. The aft sun deck has a shaded pergola with deep, comfortable sofas, made for sunset cocktails and stargazing. The forward deck gets the morning light and the coffee drinkers.

I also enjoyed the library, small gym, spa, and an observation deck for contemplating the coastline. My room was outfitted with two desks, spacious wardrobes, a bed with Egyptian cotton sheets, and a mini fridge.

The onboard lecturer, called a “LakeLorian,” was named Michael and was fantastic. I grew to love afternoons about the Victory II: fresh cookies, a cup of tea or a martini, and a great guest speaker – take me back! I learned about shipwrecks, copper mining, the architecture and history of the mansions along the shoreline, and the Ojibwe history of the north shore. On our Lake Superior sea day I watched the wake unspool for an hour and felt my shoulders drop three inches.

Food on Board: The Coastal Dining Room

I loved my gourmet meals in the Coastal Dining Room. Food and Beverage Manager, Preston Fernandes, and his team remembered my favorite table, my tastes, and my love of extra desserts. For an overwhelmed mom, this attention to detail felt like a dream come true. 

Great Lakes whitefish arrived with brown butter, toasted pecans, and a saffron beurre blanc. The Barolo-braised lamb shank came with garlic mash and a rosemary sprig. I ordered the truffle mac and cheese twice.

The Grill and Tuscan Stone Grill

I took breakfast in The Grill, the sunniest room on the ship. Navy subway tile, black industrial pendants, and a long white counter give it a bright, dockside-diner feel. Breakfast was a bounty of fresh delicacies: croissants and cherry danish, bowls of raspberries and blackberries and pineapple, house granola, and juice shots in tiny glasses.

At night The Grill becomes the Tuscan Stone Grill, and it is the most fun dinner on board. You choose your own filet, ribeye, sirloin, jumbo shrimp, or tuna from a fresh selection. Then you cook it yourself on a slab of volcanic lava rock heated at your table. Sides and sauces arrive alongside, and the shoreline slides past the windows while everything sizzles.

On long shore days, the galley packs a box for you: falafel with tahini, a honey-glazed ham and Swiss pretzel roll, a warm chocolate chip cookie. I ate mine on a bus in Minnesota and felt very well cared for. And I often found a sweet treat or two on my pillow when I returned to my stateroom, local fudge and chocolates.

Michelle Bernstein, Victory’s New Culinary Curator

Victory has just announced Michelle Bernstein as its Culinary Curator. Bernstein is a James Beard Award winner, a Miami native, and the chef-owner of several celebrated restaurants. Her cooking is bold and globally inspired, rooted in her Jewish and Latin heritage. The Great Lakes are personal for her. She has summered in the region for years, and her father’s favorite fish was walleye. Now she is building signature dishes, handcrafted cocktails, chef demonstrations, and immersive dining events across the fleet.

Mackinac Island: Horses, Fudge, and No Cars

Our first port was Mackinac Island, where cars have been banned for more than a century. You hear hooves before you hear anything else. We toured by horse-drawn carriage, passed the long white porch of the Grand Hotel, and climbed to Fort Mackinac for the cannon demonstration. And of course, the fudge!

Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore in Munising

We reached Munising at 3:30 in the afternoon, which turned out to be perfect timing. The included scenic cruise along Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore ran straight into golden hour. Mineral seeps stain the sandstone cliffs rust, green, and copper. The water below is Caribbean clear and about fifty degrees.

Marquette and Houghton: Superior’s Rugged Heart

Marquette is a college town with a granite spine. We walked the ore dock, poked through downtown bookstores, and drank very good coffee. The Keweenaw Peninsula boasts waterfalls and two-lane roads. The June day was chilly, a balm to an overheated Texan.

Duluth Lighthouses and the Aerial Lift Bridge

In Duluth, I booked the “Iconic Images and Spectacular Lighthouses” excursion, a drive along the North Shore to Split Rock Lighthouse, which stands on a cliff 130 feet above the water.

Back in town, we watched the Aerial Lift Bridge rise for an ore carrier from Canal Park. I was fascinated by this port city.

Thunder Bay: A Zodiac Ride to the Sleeping Giant

I had chosen this Victory itinerary for Thunder Bay. For the “Sleeping Giant Zodiac Experience,” I suited up in a full flotation suit and goggles at the marina, then launched onto Lake Superior toward Sleeping Giant Provincial Park.

The Sibley Peninsula rises out of the water like a figure lying on its back. We landed at Sawyer Bay and hiked a mossy trail into the boreal forest. It smelled like balsam and cold water. The Zodiac ride back was fast, loud, and wet, and I laughed the entire way.

The Soo Locks at Sault Ste. Marie

No one was more surprised than me when I got up early to watch our ship pass through the Soo Locks lift system, which moves vessels twenty-one feet between Lake Superior and Lake Huron. The locks move more freight than most Americans realize. Our LakeLorian explained the engineering while we transited. I was fascinated, and bought my husband a SOO LOCKS T-shirt later, in the appealing downtown.

Green Bay: Historic Lambeau Field Premium Excursion

In Green Bay, Victory Cruise Lines offers a premium excursion focused on the Green Bay Packers and historic Lambeau Field. The excursion includes a behind-the-scenes guided tour of Lambeau Field, including a walk through the Player’s Tunnel onto the field and admission to the Green Bay Packers Hall of Fame, and may feature a former professional football player as a guide.

West Michigan Gardens, Homes, and Sculpture in Muskegon

In Muskegon, I toured the Hackley and Hume historic homes, lumber-baron Victorians with stained glass in every window, then spent the afternoon at Frederik Meijer Gardens and Sculpture Park, where Rodin and Calder share the grounds with 158 acres of gardens. Muskegon itself has wide sand beaches and a growing arts scene. It was a soft landing before the sail back to Chicago. I watched the dunes slide by from the deck.

Plan Your Own Victory Great Lakes Itinerary

Victory goes not only to the Great Lakes but also down the St. Lawrence Seaway to Montreal and Quebec City. From there the ships continue into New England and the Canadian Maritimes, and south along the East Coast to Jacksonville. Voyages run from nine to twenty-eight nights and can be investigated at www.victorycruiselines.com!

What to Pack

June on the lakes is glorious. Mornings hovered in the fifties and afternoons warmed into the seventies. The light lasts until ten at night. Be sure to bring a raincoat or windbreaker—I love my Featherie Gabriella Windbreaker. I packed a cozy Dudley Stephens Hudson Pullover, Marine Layer Allison Twill Trouser, Marie Oliver Anya Dress, and White + Warren Cashmere Travel Wrap. Every night, I was thankful I’d brought my Genuins Izar Velour Clogs. For men, I recommend a long-sleeved, Olydoe OG Supima Hollow Polo, Mizzen+Main Leeward Dress Shirt, and stylish but comfortable shoes, like these OluKai Leather Slip-On Shoes. Don’t forget binoculars, sunscreen, and bug spray for the northern ports.

I also brought three novels to read, including MAKE NICE, a new novel set at a Lake Michigan resort!

Skip the long-haul flight this year. Fly to Chicago instead, get on a small ship, and let the largest freshwater system on earth surprise you. I went looking for a nice cruise. I came home a Great Lakes evangelist.

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 Cover Photo courtesy Victory Cruise Lines.

Amanda Eyre Ward is a New York Times bestselling novelist and travel writer whose work appears in Travel + Leisure, Bon Appétit, and Food & Wine. She lives with her family in Austin, Texas. Follow Amanda on Instagram @amandaeyreward.