Viking’s British Isles Explorer – Six countries, 15 days, total bliss

by Irene Middleman Thomas on August 29, 2024 in Travels,
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We experienced a charming culture ‘shock’ even before arriving for our recent Viking British Isles Explorer cruise. En route to London, we signed on to the plane’s Wi-Fi and were asked to select our ‘titles’.
Should we opt for “Lady,” “”Lord,” or “Baroness,” we joked to each other.
Very Downton Abbey-ish, indeed!

Viking’s British Isles Explorer itinerary enticed us with its six countries and eleven ports, with just one at-sea day. We yearned to see castles and palaces, forts and ancient stone structures, lambs and wooly Highland cows, kilts and moors and double decker buses. We did all of those, and so much more.

The Trip

Old churches with ancient gravestones are all over the British Isles. Photo Irene Middleman Thomas.

During the trip’s 15 days, traveling through England, Wales, Scotland, Ireland, Northern Ireland and Norway, we would hear many unfamiliar words and taste unfamiliar foods and beverages. “Coos” for cows? “Sucky sweet” for hard candy? Streaky bacon? Dandelion and burdock soda? ‘Cheeky’ for a misbehaving child? We definitely felt like we were on an adventure far away from home.

One of the adorable Highland cows found in Scotland. Photo Irene Middleman Thomas.

The voyage and ports are designed creatively, often with big city stops alternating with quieter visits to small towns. Viking includes at least one guided excursion at no extra cost at each port on all voyages, with several optional tours as well.

Some of the iconic red telephone booths still work! Photo Irene Middleman Thomas.

The sometimes rather indecipherable accents enchanted us. The first time I heard a guide describing a town as “wee,” I smiled with delight! When she then advised us to “take a wee wander through the lanes,” it was almost too cute. In Edinburgh, we were greeted with bagpipes, and in Liverpool, our guide played her favorite Beatles song as we drove back to the ship. There were so many of those little, yet so meaningful touches. The touches that linger in our minds and dreams.

Looking out from the heather-bedecked hills in Wales at the South Stack Bird Reserve. Photo Irene Middleman Thomas.

On Day 3, docked near Canterbury, alongside the beloved soaring white cliffs of Dover, we sauntered off on our own to stroll a nearby beach, covered in beautiful unusual stones with varying shades of blue and tan. We watched a small boy and his dad splashing in the shallow waves, and laughed at the brazen seagulls fighting with each other over their scraps. It was incredibly relaxing to have free time – which Viking encourages, so long as passengers pay close attention to “back on board” times.

While in Liverpool, many of us of a ‘certain age’ felt a touch sentimental, pondering how the Fab Four had wandered on these same streets. My daughter and I waited in a long line of fans from all over to have our photos in front of the lifesize Beatles statues. On our optional excursion to South Stack Bird Reserve near Holyhead, Wales, we were mesmerized by the endless hills of pink, magenta and purple heather. While we had hoped to see puffins, there were none, but the dazzling flowers made us happy. It turns out puffins are few in number at South Stack and are only there in early spring.

The author with the famous Beatles statues in Liverpool. Photo Irene Middleman Thomas.

What is Viking all about and what makes it unique?

If your entertainment tastes run to nature shows, PBS documentaries and Sunday morning current event programs, you are probably familiar with the polished British-accented television commercials for Viking Cruises, along with the gorgeous video of the line’s sleek river and ocean ships. Viking’s motto is “the thinking person’s cruise,” and indeed, it carefully caters to and attracts the type of travelers who fit that profile.

The company also stresses the connection to the history of the Vikings of the past, with many fascinatingly accurate replicas of Viking artifacts and Scandinavian heritage in showcases. In addition, passengers are invited to feel like part of the Viking “family.” Owner and founder Torstein Hagen has ensured that his family recipes are offered onboard, such as his grandmother’s beautiful (and delicious)“flower” cardamom-spiced waffles in Mamsen’s cafe. His daughter, Karine, appears on most Viking TV commercials with her polished British accent. Indeed, with an outstanding high return rate, passengers do enjoy feeling at home, aided by the much smaller passenger loads than on other cruise lines. Ocean vessels top off at 930, while the Douro River cruise has only 90 staterooms. We did truly feel part of the “family” while Onboard.

The beloved cardamon waffle at Mamsen’s with berries and sour cream is a morning or late evening treat. Photo Irene Middleman Thomas.

Viking lives up to its “Exploring the World in Comfort” slogan with understated elegance. Catering to a sophisticated ‘empty nester’ age group, mostly from the US, Canada and the UK, with a smattering of both younger and older, its trips aim for those who love exploration, education, relaxation and beautiful scenery, as well as stimulating conversation, gourmet cuisine, Scandinavian-design and tasteful, well-appointed staterooms, each with windows that open to fresh air and many with verandas.

Founded in 1997, Viking has grown to a fleet of more than 90 vessels, offering river, ocean and expedition voyages on all seven continents to 88 countries. This is the company for those who think they would hate cruises! With its destination-focused itineraries, and an onboard and onshore enrichment program that provides deep immersion in the destination through performances of music and art, cooking demonstrations, informative port talks and educated guest lecturers, Viking is in a class by itself.

“Viking will never try to be all things to everyone,” Hagen said in an interview. “We provide an intimate, small ship experience for the intelligent and engaged traveler who values enrichment over extravagance.”

Beautiful historic Hanseatic merchant buildings in Bergen, Norway. Photo Irene Middleman Thomas.

In July, 2024, Travel + Leisure readers voted Viking a “World’s Best” for oceans, rivers and expeditions in the 2024 World’s Best Awards. Viking was again named #1 for Oceans and #1 for Expeditions and was again voted one of the World’s Best river lines. Viking is also rated #1 for Oceans, #1 for Rivers and #1 for Expeditions by the readers of Condé Nast Traveler. No other travel company has simultaneously received the same honors by both publications—something Viking has achieved two years in a row. Viking has more than 450 awards to its name.

Viking distinguishes itself from other cruise lines by what it does not offer: such as casinos, inside (windowless) staterooms, art auctions, charges for specialty restaurants, children under 18 and no “umbrella” cocktails. For my taste, it offers an experience unlike any other. Elegant, not stuffy. Relaxing, yet not sedentary. Upscale, but not pretentious.

I loved the hot steamed washcloths offered to us upon returning from excursions. What a nice touch to have the public restrooms playing discreet birdsong in the background. Passengers are impressed by the baristas who remember how they like their coffee. My cappuccinos always came with beautiful designs in the froth, and my obviously five-months pregnant daughter received exceptional pampering, such as unique “pregnancy” smoothies and an enormous tropical fruit platter prepared just for her.

Amanda Emery, my daughter, on board the Viking Saturn overlooking the Scottish hills and moors. Photo Irene Middleman Thomas.

On the ocean ships, passengers flock to the daily 4 p.m. sumptuous ‘high tea,’ with three-tiered yummy arrays of French macarons, pastries and those iconic little tea sandwiches, accompanied by classical musicians. It is difficult to save room for the dinners!

With the almost 1:2 employee to passenger ratio, crew members are not running around frantically. Instead, the staff is observant, efficient, but relaxed and friendly. Many passengers enjoy chatting with crew members, and it is quite common to see tears and plenty of hugs at the end of the cruise. We enjoyed getting to know several of our waitpersons and hope to see them on a future trip.There are more than 90 nationalities represented within Viking’s total staff. We also still keep in touch with some folks we met on past cruises – with such small passenger counts, it is likely to run into folks over and over and to develop relationships. The temporary closeness a small cruise brings to its passengers is special and makes the vacation a much richer experience.

Several different excellent red and white wines, as well as draft beers, are included with lunch and dinners. Viking is meticulous about accommodating special diets, and vegan and vegetarian offerings, as well as Asian cuisine, is always abundant on ocean voyages, with at least a few options on river cruises. Fresh fruit and vegetables are at every meal, desserts are as they should be (irresistible) and lunch always features an inviting salad array, as well as hot entrees. Local specialties are often offered when en route to different countries. On this trip, for example, I relished in an English breakfast of eggs, baked beans, broiled tomatoes and authentic British bangers. One evening, my daughter had a splendid Yorkshire pudding with her roast beef.

Lobster traps on Orkney Island in Scotland. Photo Irene Middleman Thomas.

During our voyage, my daughter and I were faced with the very pleasant dilemma of choosing which of the ship’s dining venues to visit for each meal. Did we want to partake of the High Tea, or should we save our appetites for the World Cafe with its international buffet? Then again, we might select Manfredi’s for authentic Italian cuisine or the Chef’s Table with curated four-course meals from specific countries with paired wines. There was also The Restaurant with table service and spectacular panoramic views. Or room service? Decision, decisions – but such fun.

We chose well, and didn’t miss out on anything during the 15 day voyage! We partook of it all, and it was well worth every calorie and carb. Each day was full of culinary joys and for those who aren’t foodies, there is plenty of simple cuisine for them as well.

There are seemingly infinite choices on Viking cruises. This was my eighth Viking voyage, and I always feel slightly guilty that I don’t make time to peruse the incredibly equipped library on board, or to play games on the digital tables, or to go to the state–of-the-art gym more than a couple of times. There are the daily port excursions, of course. There are activities galore, such as TED talks, cultural and historical lectures, a boutique, full-service spa, outdoor games such as ping pong, shuffleboard and minigolf, daily classical music events, etc., etc., etc. It would be impossible to be bored!

The author lounging in the outdoor hot tub by the World Cafe’s patio. Photo Irene Middleman Thomas.

However, not to be overlooked is the oh-so delightful pastime of simply lying on the deck chairs in the luxurious WinterGarden, overlooking the sea and the swooping gulls and on this trip, even dolphins and a seal. One day, between competitive Scrabble games, we watched the waves and seabirds and dozed off at will. We did not feel guilty at all!

Useful Viking facts

Viking’s ocean ships are designed to be environmentally friendly, with energy-efficient hulls, propellers and rudder arrangements and engines with heat recovery systems. The ships have reached the best Energy Efficiency Design Index (EEDI) in its class, exceeding the current International Maritime Organization (IMO) requirements by approximately 205 percent and expected to exceed the 2025 EEDI requirements by almost 20 percent.

On occasion, Viking will make special solo traveler fares available. The voyages also host  meetups for solo travelers onboard.

The view from South Stack Bird Reserve in Wales. Photo Irene Middleman Thomas.

Each stateroom is equipped with compact binoculars, bathroom amenities, hair dryer, TV with a wide array of movies, documentaries, music and port enrichment. Stateroom category will determine whether the minirefrigerator is replenished daily with drinks and snacks. Purified water is provided in all staterooms and refilled daily.

There are no formal nights on Viking. Most passengers dress casually, with a bit of dressy attire in the evening as optional.

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Cover photo Irene Middleman Thomas

Irene Middleman Thomas lives in Denver. Her passion is traveling the world and meeting new people and places. After visiting 48 countries and all but six U.S. states, she is proud to be unjaded and enthusiastic. There is no place unworthy of exploration in her opinion!. www.irenethomas.com.