Just before we mounted up for a sunset ride along the Pacific, it was already clear: the horses at Equus Sur aren’t just well cared for — they’re respected.

 “These horses are the most spoiled creatures in the state,” our guide said, brushing dust off a sleek flank. “Better than we care for ourselves. When I come back in another life, I want to be one of our horses.”

A Desert Retreat by the Sea

Set at the end of a dirt road on the north end of Todos Santos, Villa Santa Cruz isn’t the kind of place you stumble upon. The 45-acre property is bordered by open desert and crashing waves, with the sound of the surf acting as a kind of constant soundtrack. The aesthetic is equal parts old-world hacienda and thoughtful Baja minimalism — arched doorways, hand-tiled floors, and a palette of white, stone, and sand.

The resort began as a personal project in the early 2000s, when founders Matt Canepa and John Brown bought the land after a surf trip. They eventually opened a four-room bed and breakfast in 2011 with Matt’s wife, Jessica. Since then, Villa Santa Cruz has grown into a boutique hotel with 23 accommodations, including rooftop villas, poolside rooms, and oceanfront tented suites with private decks and soaking tubs.

It’s the kind of place where guests wake to French-press coffee delivered to their door, wander barefoot to the beach along a boardwalk trail, and end the day with mezcal cocktails at The Green Room, the villa’s casual seafood spot perched in the dunes.

For wood-fired dinners and house-made pastas, Caracara offers an elevated dining experience closer to the main house.

A Ranch with a Mission

Just past the saltwater pool and gardens, the corral comes into view — dusty, shaded, and quiet. That’s where Equus Sur operates its horseback program, a partnership rooted in rescue and rehabilitation.

Each ride begins in a controlled arena. Guests are introduced to their horses not just by name, but by background. Max, a massive black gelding, was once forced to perform as a dancing horse in Cabo. He arrived covered in lacerations from being tethered and whipped into unnatural poses. These days, he’s relaxed, curious, and occasionally startled by sudden sounds—signs of a past that hasn’t entirely faded. Padrino was a former transport horse whose original owner died tragically. He’s sweet and willing, but still has opinions about where to go. 

Some horses arrive through calls from local owners who can’t care for them. Others—like Choya, who roamed free through town — were gradually folded into the herd after years of observation. Then there’s Philomena, a donkey who lived in a man’s house alongside five dogs until the ranch had room to take her in. One of the more recent rescues had been stung hundreds of times by bees after being tied up near a hive.

The ranch doesn’t go looking for horses anymore. It’s at capacity. But when the phone rings, they still pick up.

The Ride

Once everyone is comfortable in the saddle, the ride begins. The trail cuts through desert brush, past towering cardón cactus and low-slung agave. By the time you reach the beach, it’s just you, the horses, and the long stretch of sand. On clear evenings, the sun drops behind the waves in a flash of orange and pink. The breeze kicks up. The pace slows. Conversation fades.

The beach ride is calm, steady, and intentionally unscripted. It’s not about galloping through surf. It’s about observing. Feeling the rhythm of the horse. Watching frigatebirds slice the sky overhead. Following the curve of the coastline as the light disappears.

Todos Santos, in Context

Though Villa Santa Cruz feels a world away, it’s just a 10-minute drive into town. Todos Santos is a designated Pueblo Mágico, known for its colonial architecture, galleries, and low-key surf culture. Once a sugarcane hub, it’s now a destination for travelers seeking something quieter than Cabo, but still rich with food, art, and character.

Back at the resort, the rooftop hot tubs start to glow under string lights, and the scent of wood smoke drifts from Caracara’s kitchen. There are no TVs. No programmed activities. Just the steady rhythm of life at the edge of the Pacific.

If You Go

• Horseback rides with Equus Sur can be arranged directly through Villa Santa Cruz or by contacting the ranch in advance via equussur.com. Rides typically last 90 minutes and include a short orientation.
• Best time to visit: November through May, when the weather is cooler and skies are clearer.
• Getting there: Todos Santos is about 75 minutes from the Los Cabos airport by rental car or shuttle. The last stretch of road to the villa is unpaved but manageable.

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Cover Photo courtesy Villa Santa Cruz

Texas native Jennifer Griffin spends much of the year on the road in Mexico, chasing local stories, surf-town tacos, and hidden stays worth writing home about. Her work focuses on culture, food, and the places travelers might overlook—but shouldn’t.