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For a Baja California Sur vacation without the crowds, look north of Los Cabos, Mexico, to coastal pueblos Todos Santos and Loreto.
If you’re craving Baja’s beauty but prefer a quieter pace than Cabo’s bustling beaches and nightlife, head north. Two under-the-radar pueblos mágicos — Todos Santos and Loreto — offer quiet beach clubs, luxury sailing adventures and peaceful surroundings with fewer tourists.
Todos Santos

Todos Santos blends small-town charm with seaside calm. Known for its bohemian spirit, colonial architecture and thriving arts scene, this beach getaway feels worlds away from the high-energy atmosphere of Cabo San Lucas, even though it’s just about an hour north.
The historic center of this pueblo mágico is filled with galleries and colorful shops. You can stroll the cobblestone streets and high sidewalks and feel completely safe, day or night. Start with a guided walking tour to get the lay of the land and learn the history of the region.
Where to stay

Guaycura Boutique Hotel offers cozy accommodations in the heart of Todos Santos. Housed in a restored 18th-century building, this boutique hotel has 14 rooms adorned with Talavera tile and bold artwork. Both restaurants at Guaycura will delight your palate with flavors from the hotel’s orchard and herb garden. Dining by the rooftop pool is perfect for catching a sunset over the Pacific Ocean.

As a guest of the hotel, you’ll have access to El Faro Beach Club & Spa, a quick 10 minutes away. This secluded beach club has an infinity pool, lounge chairs and swinging beds overlooking the ocean. You can enjoy fresh-grilled seafood and cocktails by the pool, have a cold stone massage and soak up the sun on a stretch of deserted beach. It’s a very serene spot, with no beach vendors in sight.

From El Faro, you can see El Mirador Oceanview Restaurant perched on a nearby hill. Dine al fresco here with panoramic ocean views and enjoy Baja dishes made with local ingredients. It’s another amazing vantage point at sunset.
Day trip from Todos Santos

Just a short drive from Todos Santos, the city of La Paz offers access to the stunning Gulf of California. Head to the marina and take a boat excursion on the Sea of Cortez to Isla Espíritu Santo, a protected national park and UNESCO World Natural Heritage Site.

Espiritu Santo is only an hour from La Paz by boat, and you’ll experience startling turquoise water along the way. You may also encounter dolphins, sea turtles and a noisy sea lion colony. If your tour includes a beach stop for snorkeling, you’re in for a treat. Colorful tropical fish fill the crystal clear water.
Loreto

Head even farther north up the Baja peninsula and you’ll land in Loreto, another beautiful pueblo mágico along the Gulf of California. Founded more than 300 years ago, Loreto was the first Spanish settlement in Mexico and was once the capital of the Californias.
The main reason to visit Loreto is the Loreto Bay National Park, a protected marine park recognized by UNESCO for its ecological significance. Five volcanic islands and dozens of islets dot the Sea of Cortez in this marine park, making this a premier spot for island-hopping, whale watching, scuba diving and snorkeling.
Where to stay

La Mision Hotel faces the Sea of Cortez, making it a great choice for enjoying all that Loreto Bay National Park has to offer. For the best start to every day, grab a Starbucks from the hotel lobby and stroll along the water at sunrise.

Within walking distance of the hotel, you’ll find a marina with a small beach, shops, restaurants and the historic Mission of Our Lady of Loreto. The marina is a perfect jumping-off spot for your adventures. I recommend booking a trip to one of the islands with Luxury Baja Sailing. I loved the sunset cruise to Isla Coronado.
Day trip from Loreto

Take time to head up into the Sierra de la Giganta Mountain range to visit the San Javier mission. A guide from Loreto Sea and Land Tours can take you up the winding mountain road to San Javier, so you don’t have to drive.
The trip to the well-preserved 18th-century mission only takes an hour and you’ll enjoy seeing its hand-carved stone façade and baroque architecture. If you’re not in a rush, wander the mission grounds, visit the museum and peek in the small local shops.

When you’re done exploring, a farm-fresh meal at San Javier Farm is just the ticket. Reservations are required and they’ll dish up mouthwatering farm-to-table treats made just for you. This meal, complete with wine pairings and cocktails, was the best of my recent trip to Loreto.
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Cover Photo Heidi Gollub
Heidi Gollub lives in Austin but daydreams about retiring in Mexico’s lovely Baja California Sur. Loreto is her new favorite town in BCS, with its easy regional airport access. You can land in Loreto and be through customs and checking in at your hotel in under half an hour.








