Stand at the bow and feel the ship heel slightly as wind fills 4,100 square meters of white canvas overhead. 

The engines cut out. Suddenly there’s only the creak of rigging, the snap of sails drawing taut, and the rush of water parting beneath the hull. Above you, crew members move along the yards with practiced confidence, adjusting lines by hand the way sailors have done for centuries aboard the Sea Cloud Spirit, a three-masted barque that carries tradition in every timber.

My 22-year-old son and I claimed this spot—the bow—as our own, returning morning after morning to watch the Croatian coastline slide past while the ship cut silently through water. When I mentioned to a fellow passenger how different this felt from the cruise ships I’d experienced before, she didn’t hesitate: “We’re closer to the water.” Three decks instead of fifteen. Canvas instead of diesel. And in every direction, the Adriatic Sea.

A Legacy of Maritime History

The Sea Cloud story began in 1931 when the original Sea Cloud was launched in Kiel, Germany, as the private yacht Hussar V for Marjorie Merriweather Post and her husband Edward F. Hutton. At the time, she was the largest private yacht in the world. During World War II, the ship served the United States Coast Guard and Navy as a weather ship, becoming the U.S. military’s first racially integrated warship since the Civil War under Lieutenant Carlton Skinner’s command.

After the war, Sea Cloud returned to private ownership, serving various owners including Rafael Trujillo of the Dominican Republic, before being purchased by Hartmut Paschburg and Hamburg associates in 1978. Restored in the same German shipyard where she was built, she became a cruise ship in 1979 and has since been described by the Berlitz Complete Guide to Cruising & Cruise Ships as “the most romantic sailing ship afloat.” The Sea Cloud Spirit, launched in the 21st century, continues this legacy of combining traditional sailing with luxury cruising.

The Intimacy Advantage

The crew-to-guest ratio stands at 85 crew members for 136 passengers. The entire crew ensures a relaxed atmosphere on board with their attentive service. In this small circle of guests, the experience resembles a private yacht more than a traditional cruise ship.

The ship’s small size and maneuverability allow it to sail off the beaten tourist tracks. The vessels can call at smaller, more individual ports that guests can explore independently of organized shore excursions, in addition to well-known destinations.

Rich teak decking spans the ship. Brass fittings and coiled rope work maintain authentic tall ship character. All Sea Cloud cabins offer views of water, with the Sea Cloud Spirit featuring private balconies. The tastefully furnished outside cabins are spacious and designed for comfort, cabin stewards providing twice-daily service. Our cabin gave us room to spread out comfortably, with space for my son and me to relax without feeling cramped.

Croatian Market-to-Table Dining Aboard Sea Cloud

Chef Erik Arnecke leads the culinary program aboard the Sea Cloud Spirit, and I had the opportunity to join the culinary team on a morning market expedition through a Croatian island market. They wheeled a folding cart over cobblestone streets, examining bunches of lavender, tomatoes, chiles, and fresh flowers. Local vendors hustled to show off their truffles and handmade olive oils.

The ship’s chefs create exclusive culinary experiences with creativity of the highest order, complementing refined menus with local products and market-fresh fish. One afternoon, I watched as chefs displayed an elaborate seafood platter on deck at sunset—fresh lobsters and the day’s catch arranged beautifully and tasting even better.

One evening, my son posed with a massive tuna alongside the beaming chef, both knowing that expert hands would soon transform this prize into delicate preparations. That evening, we enjoyed fresh tuna sashimi sliced thin and artfully arranged on white ceramic plates—a true ocean-to-table moment. Other memorable dinners included house-made pasta topped with fresh black truffles, served on elegant Sea Cloud china, and perfectly prepared beef tenderloin with seasonal vegetables presented on the ship’s signature blue-rimmed plates.

The wine selection is matched to the route and features excellent wines from each region. Whether breakfast or lunch buffet, evening barbecue on deck, or elegant dinner in the restaurant, the cuisine on board is innovative and varied, catering to individual needs and combining classic, modern, and maritime influences.

Authentic Sailing Under Canvas

The Sea Cloud Spirit was built as a three-mast full-rigged ship in the 21st century, representing a commitment to true sailing passion. Professional sailors work the rigging, with sails still traditionally set by hand. The crew climbs the rigging to loosen the heavy cloth and haul lines from the deck—almost a full hour passes before all sails can catch the wind.

When conditions permit, the ship sails under wind power alone. Modern navigation equipment operates alongside traditional methods, with safety always taking priority. The combination of 19th-century tradition with contemporary systems creates an authentic maritime experience.

Guests can always be outside and close to the elements, as much activity takes place in the fresh air. The sea remains within reach rather than being many decks away.

Exclusive Access to Hidden Islands

The ship’s small size and maneuverability provide access to ports that larger vessels cannot reach. This includes destinations like Vis with its military history, and remote locations like Lastovo that maintain traditional character.

Shore excursions available during Croatian itineraries include visits to Krka National Park and its waterfalls; historical city tours in Sibenik and Dubrovnik; cultural walks through Korcula and Hvar; and explorations of Rovinj and the Istrian hinterland. Activities range from kayaking adventures to buggy tours through island landscapes, bicycle excursions, and visits to local wineries and farms. The ship’s size enables access to family workshops and authentic encounters with local craftspeople.

Premium Wellness and Service

The Sea Cloud Spirit features an extensive wellness and spa area with two treatment rooms, a Finnish sauna, a steam bath, a relaxation room, and a multi-sensory shower. A fitness room with sea views provides space for exercise with natural light and views.

Taking a sauna in the evenings became one of my favorite rituals aboard—the perfect way to unwind after a day exploring Croatian islands. The sun deck accommodates various activities throughout the day. A bistro on deck provides an evening alternative to fine dining in the restaurant. We loved this perk: some days we wanted to chat and mingle, and others we were happy to grab dinner at sunset and head back to the bow with a book to read.

With 85 crew members serving 136 passengers, service maintains personal attention. Many crew members have been with the Sea Cloud family for over 30 years, bringing passion and expertise to their roles.

Why Small Ship Cruising Matters

The Sea Cloud vessels offer a different approach to cruising, one where the rhythm of wind and waves determines the pace. Under full sails, the values of classic seamanship come to the foreground, with people at the center of everything that happens on board.

In the cozy atmosphere, connections develop among guests. This represents travel in its original sense—where the journey itself becomes the goal and time becomes a secondary consideration.

For over 40 years, Sea Cloud Cruises has nurtured the concept of gentle tourism, using wind power whenever possible rather than relying solely on engines. The captain may adjust routes based on weather conditions, prioritizing the sailing experience.

The Sea Cloud Spirit combines traditional windjammer experience with 21st-century comfort. Building a three-mast full-rigged ship with traditional rigging represents a commitment to sailing passion, offering genuine maritime romance alongside modern amenities. 

After experiencing this approach to cruising Croatia’s coast, the advantages become clear: access to hidden anchorages, personalized service, authentic sailing under canvas, and cultural connections that larger ships cannot facilitate. The Sea Cloud Spirit delivers sophisticated comfort alongside genuine maritime tradition.

Planning Your Sailing Adventure

For those interested in similar experiences, the Sea Cloud fleet offers diverse itineraries throughout the year. The Sea Cloud Spirit sails the Mediterranean during summer months, with Croatian Adriatic cruises available through early fall. Winter and spring seasons feature Caribbean sailings from St. Maarten, while specialty voyages include Atlantic crossings, Panama Canal transits, and themed music and culinary cruises.

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Cover Photo courtesy Sea Cloud Cruises. 

Amanda Eyre Ward is a New York Times bestselling novelist and travel writer. She lives with her family in Austin, TX.